We now have a lending library at Real Food Co-op. We are collecting any books on sustainable living. Most books have been donated. Please sign them out with your name and phone number.
If you have a chance, Masanobu Fukuoka's One Straw Revolution has been reprinted. Anyone with acreage should read this book. It nicely describes natural farming, in which there is no cultivation or use of fertilizers other than chicken manure, and no pesticides. Much of this philosophy can be translated into personal spaces and variations in crops, perhaps, with some thought, even into micro climates like raised beds.
Friday, April 16, 2010
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Outdoor Planting Table for Florence
I hope the following information helps to get you off to a productive spring and summer.
If you are into planting by moon phases, The Farmer's Almanac Planting Guide suggests that above ground crops be planted during the light of the moon (new to full). Below ground crops should be planted during the dark of the moon (from the day after it's full to the day before it's new). More or less gravitational pull is the idea behind it.
Here are the Farmer's Almanac's suggestions for planting in March in generally good climate areas. I'm assuming that means us:
March 19th-20th are favorable for planting seeds which yield above the ground. From the 21st to the 23rd seeds will tend to rot. The 24th and the 25th are the best days for planting above ground crops, especially peas. But also beans and cucumbers. Plant seedbeds during this time. The 26th through 29th is a barren period, and the 30th to the 31st are good days for planting root vegetables and flowers.
In March, in the Florence area, one can plant early peas and broccoli, early beets, brussels sprouts, cabbage starts, early carrots, early cauliflower starts, early celery, early collards, early kale, leeks, lettuce, onion sets, parsley, parsnips, radishes, swiss chard, and early turnips. Our climate is fairly favorable.
But if you put in tender starts or have small seedlings emerging, you may want to be safe and use crop covers on cold nights until the end of April, at which time we should be done with frosts. There are light (not plastic) crop covers available at all the nurseries. I think each package will cover at least one, and probably two beds. They let in the light and the rain, but keep your soil a bit warmer. I used them last winter on a bed in another location and had greens all winter.
To plant by the Moon Calendar for areas where the climate is favorable, the following list can be useful for April, if you have not already planted these in March:
"April 20101st-3rd. Good days for planting Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Turnips, and other root crops. Also good for Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Kale, Celery, and other leafy vegetables. Start seedbeds. 4th-5th. Barren days. Do no planting. 6th-8th. Favorable days for planting Beets, Carrots, Turnips, Radishes, Onions, and other root crops. 9th-10th. Excellent time to kill weeds, Briars, Poison Ivy, and other plant pests. 11th-13th. Favorable days for planting root crops, extra good for vine crops. Set strawberry plants. 14th-15th. Poor planting days. Break ground or cultivate. 16th-17th. Favorable for planting Beans, Corn, Tomato starts, Peppers, and other above ground crops. 18th-19th. Poor days for planting, seeds tend to rot. 20th-21st. Plant tomatoes, beans, peppers, corn, and other above ground crops on these most fruitful days. Plant seedbeds. Start flower gardens. 22nd-25th. Grub out weeds, briars, and other plant pests. 26th-28th. First two days good for planting corn, melons, squash, tomatoes, and other above ground crops. Last day favorable for planting root crops. All days favorable for planting flowers 29th-30th. Good says for planting beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, and other root crops. Also good for cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, kale, celery, and other leafy vegetables. Start seedbeds."
I would love to find out how this works for our gardeners who use this guide. Feedback would be helpful and interesting.
If you are into planting by moon phases, The Farmer's Almanac Planting Guide suggests that above ground crops be planted during the light of the moon (new to full). Below ground crops should be planted during the dark of the moon (from the day after it's full to the day before it's new). More or less gravitational pull is the idea behind it.
Here are the Farmer's Almanac's suggestions for planting in March in generally good climate areas. I'm assuming that means us:
March 19th-20th are favorable for planting seeds which yield above the ground. From the 21st to the 23rd seeds will tend to rot. The 24th and the 25th are the best days for planting above ground crops, especially peas. But also beans and cucumbers. Plant seedbeds during this time. The 26th through 29th is a barren period, and the 30th to the 31st are good days for planting root vegetables and flowers.
In March, in the Florence area, one can plant early peas and broccoli, early beets, brussels sprouts, cabbage starts, early carrots, early cauliflower starts, early celery, early collards, early kale, leeks, lettuce, onion sets, parsley, parsnips, radishes, swiss chard, and early turnips. Our climate is fairly favorable.
But if you put in tender starts or have small seedlings emerging, you may want to be safe and use crop covers on cold nights until the end of April, at which time we should be done with frosts. There are light (not plastic) crop covers available at all the nurseries. I think each package will cover at least one, and probably two beds. They let in the light and the rain, but keep your soil a bit warmer. I used them last winter on a bed in another location and had greens all winter.
To plant by the Moon Calendar for areas where the climate is favorable, the following list can be useful for April, if you have not already planted these in March:
"April 20101st-3rd. Good days for planting Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Turnips, and other root crops. Also good for Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Kale, Celery, and other leafy vegetables. Start seedbeds. 4th-5th. Barren days. Do no planting. 6th-8th. Favorable days for planting Beets, Carrots, Turnips, Radishes, Onions, and other root crops. 9th-10th. Excellent time to kill weeds, Briars, Poison Ivy, and other plant pests. 11th-13th. Favorable days for planting root crops, extra good for vine crops. Set strawberry plants. 14th-15th. Poor planting days. Break ground or cultivate. 16th-17th. Favorable for planting Beans, Corn, Tomato starts, Peppers, and other above ground crops. 18th-19th. Poor days for planting, seeds tend to rot. 20th-21st. Plant tomatoes, beans, peppers, corn, and other above ground crops on these most fruitful days. Plant seedbeds. Start flower gardens. 22nd-25th. Grub out weeds, briars, and other plant pests. 26th-28th. First two days good for planting corn, melons, squash, tomatoes, and other above ground crops. Last day favorable for planting root crops. All days favorable for planting flowers 29th-30th. Good says for planting beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, and other root crops. Also good for cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, kale, celery, and other leafy vegetables. Start seedbeds."
I would love to find out how this works for our gardeners who use this guide. Feedback would be helpful and interesting.
Monday, March 15, 2010
Garden Help
The Community Garden needs gardeners to help with pulling grass and covering the remaining ground with bark mulch. Five or ten minutes of your time when you're in the garden would be wonderful.
Fwd: Specials from Honeyman Nursery & Landscaping!
Honeyman Nursery & Landscaping March 20th & 21st 2010
Well it's that time of Spring that we have our annual sale. On March 20th & 21st all Trees, Shrubs, Annuals, Perennials, Pots, and Home Decor will be on sale. The savings will be from 10 to 75% off.
" What to do to get ready for Spring"
SEMINAR
Saturday March 27th 10 to 11amWe will focus on pruning, fertilizing, planting, what amendments to use for preparing the ground for planting, spring & summer bulb care & lawn care. No cost, but please call and and sign up for the Seminar. We want to make sure we have enough chairs, so no one has to stand this time.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Free Plants
Attention all gardeners,
Free plants will be placed on the sidewalk under Rev. Ruth's porch roof. This is a temporary site for exchange of plants. We are looking for a better solution. In the meantime, if all those strawberries are there, PLEASE help yourself. Some things will be given to Food Share if not used by us, and anything left beyond a reasonable time will be composted. Thank you!
Free plants will be placed on the sidewalk under Rev. Ruth's porch roof. This is a temporary site for exchange of plants. We are looking for a better solution. In the meantime, if all those strawberries are there, PLEASE help yourself. Some things will be given to Food Share if not used by us, and anything left beyond a reasonable time will be composted. Thank you!
Thursday, February 4, 2010
COMMUNITY GARDEN GUIDELINES
To view the guidelines and cut-off dates for the 2nd Street Community Garden, please go to the Blog Archive at the lower left of the page. Scroll to 2009>October>Guidelines.
PLANTING PEAS
by LaSabra Caldwell
•
GARDENING FRESH PEAS
From “Helium” Home and Garden
There are so many types of peas that you can grow in your own garden. All types from Shelling Peas to Snow Peas. They are a cool season vegetable which takes little effort to grow and harvest. Having these fresh from your garden is a great reward. Peas need full exposure or even just partial shade along with cooler temperatures to grow well.
The maturity sizes differ depending on your choice. Some are tall with a height of approximately 5'. Then you have the semi-dwarf plants that are approximately 2' to 4'. Dwarf plants are the last ones which are approximately 2' or less. You harvest when the peas have enlarged in their pods. To check this you will have to lightly squeeze the pod. In exception to snow peas, which are grown for their edible pods. These are harvested when they have grown to be 3" in length and the pods have become fat.
If you don't have a lot of room for growing peas you can garden some in your flower bed or a large flower pot. There is a variety of low growing attractive plants you can garden. You will have to remember to remove the vines after harvest before they turn brown.
You will have different groups of varieties to choose from. There are shelling, snap, sugar and snow. Sugar and Snow Peas are known for their edible delicious pods. They are also categorized as tall, semi-dwarf and dwarf. You can plant in spring when the soil is able to be worked. An early planting though does not always germinate any earlier than if you were to wait for the ground to warm. Although peas are a cool weather crop they do not like soul that is cold and wet. The seeds themselves can survive a frost but the plants cannot.
A fall crop is iffy, but is not impossible. If there is about 2 months between summer heat and fall frost there is a possibility to be able to have a fall crop. Gardeners in the south can plant seeds in the fall and wait for them to germinate in the spring. When the weather cools down and temperatures stay around 70 degrees then the growing of the plants slow down and the plant dies.
All types of peas need support while growing. Trellising can be done by using fencing, mesh, a bushy cut tree and shrub branches or even other plants. Because of pea plants being trellised people plant them in rows or bands of 3 to 4 inches. You cover the seeds with 1 to 2 inches of soil and pack it down firmly. To extend your harvest season you can plant in 2 week successions. You can also plant varieties that mature at different times.
The biggest problem with pea plants is root rot. This causes the foliage to turn brown and die. Making sure the soil is well drained and by rotating the pea crop each year will help. Peas also are prone to powdery mildew in humid weather.
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