Saturday, January 12, 2013

Garden Deadlines Coming Soon

Gardeners,

Please scroll down to Archives and open the very first post on this blog.  This will give you the garden guidelines and the re-assignment schedules...for old a new box holders.  These schedules are different.  But re-assignments are finalized very soon, and those who don't meet the deadline will lose their box unless they contact me at 541 997-2997.

Thanks. I'm looking forward to seeing all of you back this spring.

Also, we have new blood in the gardening community.  Her name is Katya Reyna.  She is working with the City in Urban Planning, through a program called RARE. Now we have someone who is eager to help set up more gardens.  Possibly the next one will finally be at the old Senior Center location.  That has been on the back burner this past fall and winter, and hopefully she will be able to get that one up and running with the City's help.

Anyone interested in having a box or two north of town should contact me.  We are forming a waiting list which will help us get this project off the ground.

Thanks,

Joann Henderson

Friday, October 12, 2012

Rain Garden Workshop


In case you're interested.........
Rain Garden workshop

Monday, October 29, 2012, 1:00pm until 5:00pm.

Sandpines Golf Course, Tavolo Dining Room

Hands on Rain Garden workshop featuring Maria Cahill, Sustainable Site Specialist with Green Girl Land Development Solutions. Hosted by the Siuslaw Chapter of Surfrider Foundation, Siuslaw Watershed Council and Siuslaw Soil and Water Conservation District.
Participants will learn:

 • What a rain garden is, and how to design and appropriately site one effectively

 • About soils and the importance of amendments

 • Calculating impervious surfaces so the garden can handle the volume of water

 • How to construct a rain garden in difficult locations

 • About native plants of our area and which ones will work best in your garden
RSVP to: Gus Gates, ggates@surfrider.org *Space is limited to the first 40 people who sign up.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012


EWG's 2012 Shopper's Guide to Pesticides in Produce™
Eat your fruits and vegetables! The health benefits of a diet rich in fruits and vegetables outweigh the risks of pesticide exposure. Use EWG's Shopper's Guide to Pesticides to reduce your exposures as much as possible, but eating conventionally-grown produce is far better than not eating fruits and vegetables at all. The Shopper's Guide to Pesticides in Produce will help you determine which fruits and vegetables have the most pesticide residues and are the most important to buy organic. You can lower your pesticide intake substantially by avoiding the 12 most contaminated fruits and vegetables and eating the least contaminated produce.
This year we have expanded the Dirty Dozen with a Plus category to highlight two crops -- green beans and leafy greens, meaning, kale and collard greens - that did not meet traditional Dirty Dozen criteria but were commonly contaminated with highly toxic organophosphate insecticides. These insecticides are toxic to the nervous system and have been largely removed from agriculture over the past decade. But they are not banned and still show up on some food crops.
Commodity crop corn used for animal feed and biofuels is almost all produced with genetically modified (GMO) seeds, as is some sweet corn sold for human consumption. Since GMO sweet corn is not labeled as such in US stores, EWG advises those who have concerns about GMOs to buy organic sweet corn.
Dirty dozen +

apples, celery, sweet bell peppers, peaches, strawberries, imported nectarines. grapes, spinach, lettuce, cucumbers, domestic blueberries, potatoes         
                                                           
Plus
green beans and green kale

Clean fifteen  ( lowest in pesticides)


onions, sweet corn (if it’s not GMO), pineapples, avocado, cabbage, sweet peas, asparagus, mangoes, eggplant, kiwi, domestic cantaloupe, sweet potatoes, grapefruit, watermelon, mushrooms.








Monday, May 21, 2012

How Biodiversity Keeps Earth Alive

It is more apparent every day that we are entering a new era of food sustainability, not just for ourselves personally, but for the planet.  When I read articles like the one that follows, I am encouraged in my own home gardening ethic.  I think it is going to be imperative that we each grow our own garden, for lower cost food, for organic food that tastes better and is better for you, and for the sheer joy of getting out there and relishing the sunshine and all growing things. Most individuals in small European towns have for decades grown their own vegetables, herbs and flowers. It's a fact of life, and makes a great deal of sense.  We here in the US have become jaded in our ability to get what we want fast at the nearest supermarket.  But for the most part, all those packaged and processed foods in the center aisles are either bad for us because they contain chemicals we can't identify as good for us, and corn syrup or other variants of corn sugars that are big culprits in the obesity epidemic.  If you look at the labels, corn sugars are in everything, and they change the name at various times to offset our reactions to it. But marketing has us hoodwinked and we begin to believe that because the packaging says its great, it must be.

We recently bought some non-organic apples, because they were selling at a lower price.  When I bit into one at home, I put it down, looked at it, and wondered what was wrong with it.  It tasted like cardboard. Then I remembered....it just couldn't replace that wonderful crispy natural sweetness of an organic apple...what apples are supposed to taste like....what I remember them tasting like on the farm.  At one time there were over 800 varieties of apples. Now we have the few that you see on the supermarket shelves, unless you are growing heritage varieties yourself. And those few varieties in the supermarket are denatured with chemicals.  So how do we know they are still good for us? Try organic.  Better yet, get your own columnar apple trees and plant them in pots on your deck or in your yard.  In a couple of years you will have an easy to care for dwarf apple "tree" which bears abundant, large, sweet and juicy apples.

And think about biodiversity. We need to save our plant species.  It is healthier for us, for the planet, and for the future of food.


From The Scientific American by David Biello



California-meadow BIODIVERSITY: Native wildflowers add diversity to
this prairie-like California grassland. 

In 1994 biologists seeded patches of grassland in Cedar Creek, Minn.
Some plots got as many as 16 species of grasses and other plants—and
some as few as one. In the first few years plots with eight or more
species fared about as well as those with fewer species, suggesting
that a complex mix of species—what is known as biodiversity—didn't
affect the amount of a plot's leaf, blade, stem and root (or biomass,
as scientists call it). But when measured over a longer span—more than
a decade—those plots with the most species produced the greatest
abundance of plant life.

"Different species differ in how, when and where they acquire water,
nutrients and carbon, and maintain them in the ecosystem. Thus, when
many species grow together, they have a wider set of traits that allow
them to gain the resources needed," explains ecologist Peter Reich of
the University of Minnesota, who led this research to be published in
Science on May 4. This result suggests "no level of diversity loss can
occur without adverse effects on ecosystem functioning." That is the
reverse of what numerous studies had previously found, largely because
those studies only looked at short-term outcomes.

The planet as a whole is on the cusp of what some researchers have
termed the sixth mass extinction event in the planet's history: the
wiping out of plants, animals and all other forms of life due to human
activity. The global impact of such biodiversity loss is detailed in a
meta-analysis led by biologist David Hooper of Western Washington
University. His team examined 192 studies that looked at species
richness and its effect on ecosystems. "The primary drivers of
biodiversity loss are, in rough order of impact to date: habitat loss,
overharvesting, invasive species, pollution and climate change,"
Hooper explains. Perhaps unsurprisingly, "biodiversity loss in the
21st century could rank among the major drivers of ecosystem change,"
Hooper and his colleagues wrote in Nature on May 3. (Scientific
American is part of Nature Publishing Group.)

Losing just 21 percent of the species in a given ecosystem can reduce
the total amount of biomass in that ecosystem by as much as 10
percent—and that's likely to be a conservative estimate. And when more
than 40 percent of an ecosystem's species disappear—whether plant,
animal, insect, fungi or microbe—the effects can be as significant as
those caused by a major drought. Nor does this analysis take into
account how species extinction can both be driven by and act in
concert with other changes—whether warmer average temperatures or
nitrogen pollution. In the real world environmental and biological
changes "are likely to be happening at the same time," Hooper admits.
"This is a critical need for future research."

The major driver of human impacts on the rest of life on this
planet—whether through clearing forests or dumping excess fertilizer
on fields—is our need for food. Maintaining high biomass from farming
ecosystems, which often emphasize monocultures (single species) while
also preserving biodiversity—some species now appear only on
farmland—has become a "key issue for sustainability," Hooper notes,
"if we're going to grow food for nine billion people on the planet in
the next 40 to 50 years."

Over the long term, maintaining soil fertility may require nurturing,
creating and sparing plant and microbial diversity. After all,
biodiversity itself appears to control the elemental cycles—carbon,
nitrogen, water—that allow the planet to support life. Only by acting
in conjunction with one another, for example, can a set of grassland
plant species maintain healthy levels of nitrogen in both soil and
leaf. "As soil fertility increases, this directly boosts biomass
production," just as in agriculture, Reich notes. "When we reduce
diversity in the landscape—think of a cornfield or a pine plantation
or a suburban lawn—we are failing to capitalize on the valuable
natural services that biodiversity provides."

At least one of those services is largely unaffected, however,
according to Hooper's study—decomposition. Which means the bacteria
and fungi will still happily break down whatever plants are left after
this sixth extinction. But thousands of unique species have already
been lost, most unknown even to science—a rate that could halve the
total number of species on the planet by 2100, according to
entomologist E. O. Wilson of Harvard University. Ghosts of species
past haunt ecosystems worldwide, which have already lost not just one
or another type of grass or roundworm but also some of their strength
at sustaining life as a whole.



Thursday, February 23, 2012

My Subversive Garden Plot

The TED conference which is held every year in California, hosts the most innovative and creative thinkers in our country.  This year, one of them was Roger Doiron speaking about the importance of having our own gardens.  This was so much fun to watch, and it makes a good point:

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Early Spring Suggestions from Oregon State Extension Service



How to test your stored seed for germination

Seeds. Photo by Lynn Ketchum.
CORVALLIS, Ore. – If you saved seeds from the last growing season and wonder if they will germinate when planted this spring, you can discover the average rate of germination before the planting season begins.
"It's easy to check vegetable and flower seed viability, and it can save you time later when the gardening season begins," said Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. "Some seeds remain viable for a year and others for three or more years."
To find out whether a variety of seed will germinate and grow, Penhallegon suggests the following test:
  • Place 10 seeds an even distance apart on a damp paper towel. Roll up the towel and place in a plastic bag.
  • Leave the damp, rolled towel in a warm spot in the kitchen for two to five days. The location's lighting doesn't matter.
  • After the two-to-five days, check the paper towel to see which seeds have germinated.
"The percentage of seed germinating in the towel will give you a fairly good idea how the same seed will do in the garden," he said. "If half the seed did well in the towel, half of the same batch of seed will probably do well in the garden."
Some seed types last longer than others. For example, seed from sweet corn, parsnips, Swiss chard and spinach generally keep well under normal household conditions for only a year. On the other hand, beans, carrots, cole crops, collards, squashes, tomatoes and turnips are good for at least three years.
Seed is best stored through the winter at 50 degrees with 50 percent humidity. Another good way to store unused seed packets is to place seeds in a sealed jar with a desiccant or powdered milk at the bottom to absorb moisture. Store the jar in a cool room or refrigerator over the winter.
To learn more about storing seed, see OSU Extension's "Collecting and Storing Seeds from Your Garden," FS 220, online.
To learn about propagating plants from seed, see the OSU Extension's PNW 170 "Propagating Plants from Seed" online.
You can search the OSU Extension catalog for more than 1,200 items, including publications, books, videos and other educational media.
Author: Judy Scott




Planting/Propagation
  • Plant windowsill container gardens of carrots, lettuce, or parsley.
  • Plan to add herbaceous perennial flowers to your flowering landscape this spring: astilbe, candytuft, peony, and anemone.
  • Good time to plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs. Replace varieties of ornamental plants that are susceptible to disease with resistant cultivars.
  • Plant asparagus if the ground is warm enough.
  • Plant seed flats of cole crops (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts), indoors or in greenhouse.
  • Western Oregon: Where soil is dry enough and workable, plant garden peas and sweet peas. Suggested varieties of garden peas include: Corvallis, Dark Green Perfection, Green Arrow, Oregon Sugar Pod, Snappy, Knight, Sugar Snap, Oregon Trail, and Oregon Sugar Pod II.
  • Western Oregon: Good time to plant new roses. 
Pest Monitoring and Management
  • Monitor landscape plants for problems. Don't treat unless a problem is identified.
  • Use delayed-dormant sprays of lime sulfur for fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs.
  • Remove cankered limbs from fruit and nut trees for control of diseases such as apple anthracnose, bacterial canker of stone fruit and eastern filbert blight. Sterilize tools before each new cut.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Message from a Midwestern Transplant

YAHOO, I'm so glad to have come across your "In Brief" in the S'News about growing food & sharing LOCAL garden knowledge!!  John, thanks for talking with me about this (and following a few rabbit trails) this morning.  I come from the midwest, and was astonished to find that many of the plants I had been buying back east (and regularly killing) grow wild here along the railroad tracks & river banks!!

I'm also learning a bit about what grows well here and what doesn't work, and have decided that snow peas and snap peas are a great use of my garden space, while corn is NOT worth it.  While my husband is exalting his hops crops, I've been sharing hardy kiwis and extolling their virtues to several surprised friends, and looking forward to growing more blueberries, but there's an awful lot I have to learn!  For a few:
 

  1. Now's probably a good time to start several things in my greenhouse - definitely peas, spinach, lettuce, kohlrabi and broccoli, but probably too early for squash, tomatoes & peppers...  
  2. John, what was the berry that you mentioned that sounded like 'erronia'?  (Aronia~admin)
  3. I definitely need a load of manure - seems like a trailerful (I have the trailer) would be about right.  Other than C&M Stables north of Florence, do you know of any place to go?  I found a couple local ranches (Veneta & Walton) on EatWild.com, but they aren't selling poop. 
  4. I also need to know a lot more about pruning & caring for my fruit trees (apple & cherry).  Do you know anyone in the Mapleton/Swisshome area?
Please do put me on your email list!  Thanks so much,
Peg