Friday, September 23, 2011

G.R.O.W

Recently I have come to know the passion of John and Maria Yager for growing food and turning on  the rest of the world to growing food as well. Greenfields Farm, on Fiddle Creek Road, is an adventure to get to.  At the end of the journey, a five mile stretch of dirt road, that will challenge any paint job, ends in abundant fields of chard, kale, tomatoes, squash, corn....exotic berries and apples...and any number of known and unknown edible varieties of plants.  Fortunately they have been working this farm for some years, and we are heirs to knowledge about how gardening works. And we benefit from the Yagers' Farmers Market produce and their undying attempts to educate and help anyone do it on their own. Recently we helped them get their apple harvest in and cider pressed.

The food supply in the United States has not been as impacted as in some countries.  But prices are rising, and our poorer folks will have a harder time getting nutritional food.  In times like this many people begin to rely on cheap processed foods to get them through....foods which are high in sugars, fats and any number of unnecessary additives.  They affect our health in the form of diabetes, obesity and heart disease, and are ultimately more expensive.  Gardening education and encouraging homegrown gardens could be the answer for many people.  And food tastes better!  It's amazing how simple it is to put seeds in the ground and find wholesome, delicious plants a few weeks later.

We have begun a group called G.R.O.W. to help introduce food producing plants, shrubs and trees into our local public and private landscapes.  Every spring we will offer the opportunity to buy organic chicken manure wholesale, and this fall and winter we are buying food bearing plants, shrubs and trees wholesale. Members of the group are available for all kinds of information about growing your own food. It is a loose organization at present,  meeting bi-weekly, and all are welcome.  Let's turn our town into a garden paradise!

We also have information from Evan Garrett about building greenhouses.  Email him at evangarret@hotmail.com for information.

John Yager recently introduced us to Seaberries, a German favorite for its high Vitamin C, D, and E content... great for juice and jams.  The Seaberry is a beautiful shrub and will add to any landscape.  It is four to eight feel tall, depending on the variety, very willowy with lanceolate grey-green leaves.  The abundant orange berries grow in clusters along the stem.  You can try them at the local Saturday Market at John and Maria's booth.  Some of us have just received our first Seaberry shrubs.

If you're interested in coming to the meetings or getting on a contact list for plants, please call John at 541 902-8815.  The next meeting will be held at the Bromley Room of the library, November 22 at 5:30 PM in the library's Bromley Room. Or call Joann Henderson at 997-2997 (or email giovanna@oregonfast.net.)

Here are notes from the last meeting:


John Yager said he would like to see a self sufficient Florence creating more food and biodiversity, with children and families planting and tending gardens in public spaces. We need to involve people and teach the use of permaculture techniques in our landscape.
          He talked about Devil's Club which is growing in our area and has beneficial
          anti-microbial qualities in the spines and berries.                                                                                                         
Several people with established community programs want to be involved in the GROW group, ie. Pat and Glen Stewart from "Helping Hands", Bart Healer from Food Share, Debbie Sherman, a social worker, who wants to get housing and programs for the 69 + homeless children here in Florence, and Danyel Hummel from the Food for Lane County Community Food Asssessment program. 
  • We talked about Amazon Gardens and plants in California as part of a Big Garden that the Indians tended to maintain a balanced eco-system.  Tending The Wild is a reference on that subject.
  • We discussed the need for space to grow things like the Silver Berry, a hybrid, that produces in February and March. Their seeds are 40% protein. 
  • Berries of the Wild Fuscia in our area are edible. There aren't that many of them and they are not very sweet, but they are edible and pretty in a salad 
  • Gooseberries may be an invasive species, but grow well in our area and they like the shade.
  • We would like to begin a seed bank and exchange seeds. 
  • Two seed companies which are good to use are Peaceful Valley.com and Wild seed.com. 
                    Another good site is www.permaculture.co.uk/

          There were so many good offerings at that meeting: an offer of Alaskan fish at wholesale, a
          website for  G.R.O.W., help for  a children's garden program, organizing for buying fertilizer 
          wholesale again this spring, and a suggestion that we try to start community gardens 
          in our local parks.  
All are welcome to come to the next meeting on November 22nd.  Bring your ideas and  enthusiasm.
          Good gardening!







Monday, September 12, 2011

What To Plant Now

If you're thinking about putting in a winter garden, now is the time to plant kale, lettuce, mache and other salad green starts. You can also seed these now, as well as the following:  arugula, Asian greens, beets, cabbage for spring, carrots, endive (if you like endive), fava beans, garlic, onions, radish and shallots.

I recently put in broccoli and spinach starts, based on our late spring, summer, and possibly late fall. You can plant  beets, carrots, brassicas and lettuce together...they're good companions.

Of course, cover crops are good to plant now if you are not starting a winter garden.


Monday, August 29, 2011

Food Not Lawns

Food Not Lawns  is a neat site to access methods of organic gardening.  They have connections with Tilth and post valuable information for gardeners. I came across an extensive review of garden symphylans, those pesky little white centipede looking things that destroy plants.  They are pervasive in the Willamette Valley.  I'm not sure about the Coast. Check it out!

http://bugs.scribble.com/index.html

Got Cut Worms?


This article from the University of Minnesota might be helpful:  

Cutworms in Home Gardens
Jeffrey Hahn and Suzanne Wold-Burkness, 
University of Minnesota
Copyright ©  2011  Regents of the University of Minnesota. All rights reserved.
printer-friendly PDF version

INTRODUCTION
Cutworms are the larvae (caterpillars) of several species of night-flying moths in the family Noctuidae. The larvae are called cutworms because they cut down young plants as they feed on stems at or below the soil surface. There are also species of climbing cutworms that move up plants and feed upon foliage, buds and shoots. The adults are night-flying moths and do not cause damage. As general feeders, most cutworms attack a wide range of plants. Some common vegetable hosts include asparagus, bean, cabbage and other crucifers, carrot, celery, corn, lettuce, pea, pepper, potato, and tomato. In addition, a few species feed on turfgrass.
IDENTIFICATION
The most common species of cutworm occurring in Minnesota gardens are the bronzed cutworm, variegated cutworm, black cutworm, dingy cutworm, glassy cutworm and army cutworm.
Cutworms can be quite distinct from one another, and their coloring can vary from brown or tan to pink, green or gray and black.  Some cutworms are a uniform color while others are spotted or striped.  Some larvae are dull and others appear glossy or shiny.  Cutworms curl up into a tight "C" when disturbed. 
Adult moths are moderate sized, brown or black insects showing various splotches, or stripes in shades of gray, brown, black or white.  They generally have a body length of about one inch with wingspans up to 1 1/2 inches across.  Typically, the front wings are darker than the hind wings and are patterned. 
LIFE CYCLE
Some cutworms migrate into the state from the south each year.  However, other species, including, dingy cutworm, bronzed cutworm, and glassy cutworm are native to Minnesota and overwinter as eggs or larvae.
Female moths can lay hundreds of eggs, singly or in small clusters.  They typically deposit them on low-growing plants and on plant residue.  Migrating moths lay eggs on the soil and the larvae hatch to feed on plants.  Young larvae feed on the foliage or small roots of weeds or crops until they reach about 1/2 inch in length.  Emerging or newly emerged weeds can be very attractive sites for egg laying and feeding by small larvae. At this stage, they can begin feeding on seedling stems, either cutting through them or burrowing into them.  Corn, peppers, tomatoes, beans, and the crucifer family are common hosts, but they will attack many kinds of herbaceous plants.
Cutworm larvae grow as large as two inches long.  They may go through as many as three generations per year.  Native cutworms overwinter in weedy areas, grassy fields or pastures.  It is often in these areas and along field borders where problems arise.  If weeds are permitted to grow in the fall after crop harvest and the fall and winter seasons are mild, large numbers of cutworms may survive to attack vegetables in the spring.
Cutworm abundance and development is greatly affected by weather, especially rainfall.   Moths mate and lay eggs from early spring (black cutworm) to late summer/fall (dingy, glassy, and bronzed cutworm), beginning the next generation. 
DAMAGE
Most cutworm damage occurs on vegetable seedlings early in the season when plants are small and have tender tissue.  Although cutworms are active throughout the summer, they are rarely a problem after spring.  Cutworm populations can vary greatly from year to year and, when numerous, can devastate a garden.  Most of the damage caused by cutworms occurs when they chew stems of young plants at or slightly above or below the soil line.  Sometimes the severed plants will drop into their burrows.  Some cutworms, e.g. black, bronzed, and army cutworms, can be very injurious, attacking and cutting new plants nightly.
Climbing species of cutworm, (e.g., variegated cutworm) can climb the stem of trees, shrubs, vines, and garden plants and eat the leaves, buds and fruit.  Other species, such as glassy cutworms, remain in the soil and feed upon roots and underground parts of the plant.
MANAGEMENT
Regularly check your garden, especially during late afternoon and evening when cutworms are more active, so you can detect their activity when they are first present.  Also inspect your plants in the morning when damage is fresh and easier to see.  Watch for plants cut off near the ground or plants that are noticeably wilting (when cutworms chew on the stems but do not sever the plant).  You may also detect droppings on the ground, which can indicate cutworm feeding.  To verify cutworms are present, run your hand over the soil, rolling over soil clumps and other potential hiding places within a one foot square area of the damage.
Control of cutworms is more effective when the larvae are small.  For some crops, such as tomatoes, peppers and celery, you may need to monitor for cutworms until harvest.
CULTURAL
Remove weeds and plant residue to help reduce egg-laying sites and seedling weeds that nourish small cutworms.  Till your garden before planting which helps expose and kill overwintering larvae.  Tilling also removes plant residue, which helps to discourage egg laying.  Avoid using green manure as this may encourage egg laying, instead use compost.  Till your garden in the fall; this helps destroy or expose overwintering larvae or pupae.
PHYSICAL
You can control cutworms by placing aluminum foil or cardboard collars around transplants.  This creates a barrier that physically prevents cutworm larvae from feeding on plants.  When placing these collars around plants, make sure one end is pushed a few inches into the soil, and the other end extends several inches above ground.  This should prevent most species of cutworms from getting to your plants.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Free Plants and Plant Swaps

We are endeavoring to have a place where people can trade or give away plants.  This post will keep an update of what is available.  Please leave a comment with phone number if you have something you want to give.  I will post it as soon as I see it.  Thanks.  -admin-

Currently we have red raspberry plants to give away or swap. They are various sizes, but should all be good for next spring.  They have a great flavor!

Wednesday, June 8, 2011



http://www.helpfulgardener.com/organic/2006/insects.html:          I shamelessly lifted this information from this site. I think it's helpful.  Especially now as summer is here and the pests are really out.  :-)) I hope it's helpful!

Gardening tips from The Helpful Gardener.


Gardening tips: The Helpful Gardener promotes sustainable gardening that is safe for the local environment. Read all of our articles about Organic Gardening and start improving your garden today!

Easily control garden pests with these earth friendly tips

Unwanted insects in your garden are just that: unwanted. Unwanted insects may eat and destroy your crops, something shared by any farmer or home gardener. Organic gardening is a means of controlling unwanted insects naturally, without the use of dangerous pesticides. There are many ways to control garden unwanted insects naturally that are also cheap, easy and good for the earth.

Protect your organic soil and beneficial insects
While pesticides may eliminate the pest, they most often cause more harm than good. Unfortunately, many home and commercial gardeners are unaware of alternatives to pesticides. That’s because s are a big part of our culture. Reaching for a quick fix—albeit a dangerous fix—is a deep seeded and detrimental habit.
Yet apart from damaging the soil and being a health hazard to people—including our children—pesticides present a major problem. They eradicate species indiscriminately, causing helpful garden co-habitants to disappear along with the harmful ones.
An organic garden with beneficial insects
Indeed, the fact remains that not all insects are unwanted insects. Any kindergartner can tell you that bees help flowers. He or she could also tell you that a ladybug is good luck. But more than just good luck, ladybugs are a highly helpful natural pesticide to have in your garden, feeding on a myriad of insect unwanted insects including aphids if you ever see little alligator like insects around your garden, leave them be! These are the larval stage of ladybugs. Obviously, s are not as intelligent as your average kindergartner—they kill bugs on a wholesale level while upsetting ecosystems and ruining your plants as well as your soil.
Are your garden pests resistant to pesticides?
Commercial farmers today have a strong reliance on pesticides. Large companies sell pesticides to farmers who use them on their crops. Over the years the unwanted insects become resistant to the pesticides and increasingly larger amounts must be used. So it is that the farmer pays more and more money and dumps more and more of them onto his/her crops-our food. The result is a coated crop and a pesticide resistant bug, a crop that is more susceptible to the insect pest.
Are you harming the local bird population?
Recent studies have been conducted concerning pesticides’ effect on local bird populations. Birds eat the insects, which have ingested the pesticides. Because the pesticide is an indiscriminate poison, the bird is targeted as well. Furthermore, if the birds do not immediately disappear, their eggshells become thinner and thinner and often break when parent birds sit on the eggs. This is a huge problem with bald eagles in North America. With no insects and no birds those predators which live off of the birds disappear too, causing a huge disruption in the local ecosystem which is never beneficial to growth of any kind.
Birds eat insects!
Encourage birds to come into your garden by placing a bird bath in the garden and by planting plants that will attract birds such as sunflowers. There are even perennial sunflowers that not only attract birds year round but, can also be planted like a hedge and repel deer and other animals. Helianthus maximillani.
Natural pest control is rooted in a vigorous, balanced ecosystem. Years of pesticide use may be so disruptive to a local ecosystem that the land may become unusable after only a few years. They remain in the soil and become more concentrated with each year of use, eventually rendering the soil unable to produce vigorous plants.
The soil can heal
However, there is hope. Some products like methyl bromide can be amended by simply adding organic matter to the infected soil. The result is addition of the organic portion of this pesticide to the organic matter that you already added and liberation of the bromide ion. At the very least, you can add organic matter to a laden soil to simply dilute the concentration. However, you can also look up the MSDS online for that to learn how to amend it.
Organic alternatives to pesticides
There are many natural, organic alternatives to pesticides that are more long lasting, safe, vigorous and generally effective.
One of the simplest pest control devices is a barrier. By covering a row of crop with a light netting (which allows the sunlight to come through) flying unwanted insects are effectively kept away from the plants. These are generally used for food crops. Cabbage can be protected from flea beetles and green beans from Mexican Bean Beetles.
Another simple method of pest control for a small garden is handpicking. Many slugs and Hornworms can be handpicked off of plants with great success.  Put them in a container and relocate them to another area.  I don't know for sure, but I suspect Mother nature has a use for them).  Certain moths and bugs can be knocked out of trees with a stick; allow them to fall onto a large piece of cloth so that they can be gathered .
Beneficial Insects Will Control the Bad Insects
Some insects like the Ladybug and the Green Lacewing are called beneficial because they are the good guys who are on the hunt for the bad guys that are feeding on your plants. Here is a list of beneficial insects, with links to where they are offered by an Earth friendly distributor.
Green Lacewings Chrysoperla carnea 
Green Lacewings are an all purpose beneficial insect that feed on insects such as aphids and other insects that will come and feed on your plants. Green Lacewings are perfect for a backyard garden, larger garden, or a greenhouse.
Easy way to get rid of slugs and aphids!
Certain varieties of plants are more resistant to insects. Some research into the types of plants you grow and the unwanted insects common to your area could prevent a lot of pest problems. Also, some plants themselves are pesticides. For instance, planting tobacco around your vegetable garden is an excellent way to discourage slugs and aphids!
How native plants can revive your garden
Buy local transplants to avoid bringing non-native unwanted insects into your garden. Add mulch and other simple barriers around your crops, check your garden regularly. Some mulches are better than others.  If you use straw around your plants, expect the slugs to hide in it.  Otherwise, cedar chips help keep them away.  They don't like to be stuck with the shims. Also, copper tape around the base of your plants works well.  It gives off an electromagnetic charge that keeps slugs away.  I've watched.  It works!  So do pennies!

 Healthy plants are naturally more resistant to predators; just like having a strong immune system. All of these methods are natural and easy preventative measures to help you obtain a pest free garden.
If your preventative measures did not work, there are many, natural and organic plant sprays that can control unwanted insects. A mixture of Petroleum oil and water sprayed onto a plant is a natural pesticide that has been used effectively for hundreds of years. Many oils, shells and plant extracts can also be used as safe, effective, natural pesticides.

Administrator's note:  I have been introduced (yes, this late in my gardening career) to diatomacious earth.  You can sprinkle it on your plants, and around the bases to keep insects and slugs off the plants.  This works well.  But you MUST wear a dust mask.  It is silica and any little breeze will blow it your way.  It should NOT be inhaled.  I think it might also be turned into the soil for wire worms.  But I haven't experimented with that yet.

Related articles:  Natural pest control is a safer and, ultimately, more effective means of keeping a vigorous organic garden. With a little more knowledge it becomes obvious that the use of non-organic pesticides is not only ineffective but dangerous and irresponsible. By understanding your native habitat ecosystem and working in partnership with establishing a balance of beneficial insect predators such as ladybugs, praying mantis, and birds, as well as planting species that naturally prohibit invasion by unwanted insects, you too can have a vigorous garden by working in partnership with your garden.


 




















Friday, June 3, 2011

Planting tips/June/ and Clean Your Vegetables

Finally!  It looks like we might actually have a growing season here on the coast.  It is short in any year, so it's is a bit of a challenge for us this year.  The common advice is that the optimum time for planting vegetables is by mid June.  Well, I plant all summer, especially things like lettuce and re-planting of chard, spinach and other cold weather varieties, if you want them to over-winter.  The coast weather is conducive to being a little more creative.

You can plant berries now....strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, black and boysenberries.  Our good gardener friend John Yager tells us that silverberries are great producers and can be bought at a nursery in Molalla.  Contact John via the phone book.  He is also researching other varieties of edible berries and plants.  My personal favorite to pursue is Seaberry.  Like tiny oranges, they are very high in vitamin C and can be used for jams and jellies.

Clean Your Vegetables


What a scare!  Germany is experiencing a deadly E.coli and many have died.  We've had our scares here, but the one in Europe is really serious. If you are at all worried about the possibility of that happening here, an effective and low tech way of  killing E.coli is to wash your vegetables in salt water.  The organisms absorb the salt and burst their cell membranes, killing them. Don't let agri-business scare you away from your own home-grown veggies or store bought organics, by claiming that E.coli is a greater danger.  They definitely have the same problems.  Common sense and, wash those veggies!