Companion Plants

Herb Companion Chart

Raised Beds

Vegetable Companion Chart

Plant	Good Companions	Bad Companions
Basil	Pepper, Tomato, Marigold
Bush Beans	Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Corn, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea, Radish, Strawberry, Savory, Tansy, Marigold	Onion
Pole Beans	Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Lettuce, Pea, Radish, Savory, Tansy	Beets, Onion
Beets	Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Sage
Cabbage Family	Bush Beans, Beets, Celery, Onions, Tomato, All Strong Herbs, Marigold, Nasturtium	Strawberry
Carrots	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radish, Tomato, Sage	Dill
Celery	Bush Beans, Cabbage, Onion, Spinach, Tomato
Corn	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Cucumber, Melons, Peas, Squash	Tomato
Cucumbers	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Corn, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Radish, Marigold, Nasturtium, Savory	No Strong Herbs
Eggplant	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Spinach
Lettuce	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Cucumbers, Onion, Radish, Strawberries
Melons	Corn, Nasturtium, Radish
Onion	Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Cucumber, Lettuce, Pepper, Squash, Strawberries, Tomato, Savory	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Peas
Parsley	Tomato
Peas	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Corn Cucumber, Radish, Turnips	Onion
Pepper	Onion
Radish	Bush Beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Cucumber, Lettuce, Melons, Peas, Squash	Hyssop
Spinach	Celery, Eggplant, Cauliflower
Squash	Corn, Onion, Radish
Strawberry	Bush Beans, Lettuce, Onion, Spinach	Cabbage
Tomato	Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Onion, Mint	Corn, Fennel

Read more: Good & bad companions for vegetables | Garden Guides http://www.gardenguides.com/410-good-amp-bad-companions-vegetables.html#ixzz0vnggEjXj

Oregon Planting Guide

This planting guide is from the Oregon Extension Service.  It gives you dates for planting and dates for doing starts.  Happy planting!

Basically, things to plant on the coast now are:

• Plant winter cover crops in vacant space in the vegetable garden
• Plant winter kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, parsnips, parsley, and Chinese cabbage.
• Plant spinach

		Planting date
		Zone l	Zone 2	Zone 3	Zone 4
Vegetable	Start plants this long before planting date for your region	Coast, Astoria to Brookings	Western valleys, Portland to Roseburga	High elevations, mountains, and plateaus of central and eastern Oregon	Columbia and Snake valleys, Hermiston, Pendleton, Ontario	Amount to plant for family of 4b	Distance between rowsc	Distance apart in the row
Artichokes (globe)	Crown pieces	Aug.-Oct. May-June	Aug.-Nov. April-June	not suitable	not suitable	3-4 plants	48-60"	48-60"
Asparagus	1 year	March-April	Feb.-March	Feb.-March	Feb.-March	30-40 plants	60"	12"
Beans (lima)	not suitable	not suitable	May-June	May-June	April 15-June	15-25' of row	12-24"	4-6" bush12-24" pole
Beans (snap)	not suitable	May-June	May-July	April-June	April 15-June	15-25' of row	12-24"	2-6" bush 12-24" pole
Beets	not suitable	March-June	March-June	April-June	March-July	10-15' of row	12"	1-2"
Broccoli	6 weeks	May-June	March-Aug.	April-June	April-July	10-20' of row	12-24"	12-24"
Brussels sprouts	6 weeks	May-June	May-July	April-June	April-July	15-20' of row	24"	24"
Cabbage	6 weeks	Jan.-April July-Sept.	April-June	April-June	April-July	10-15 plants	24"	24"
Cantaloupes	4 weeks	not suitable	May	not suitable	May	5-10 hills	48"	48"
Carrots	not suitable	Jan.-June	March-July 15	April-June	March-July	20-30' of row	12"	2"
Cauliflower	6 weeks	Jan. & June	April-July 15	April-May	April & July	10-15 plants	24"	24"
Celery	9 weeks	March-June	March-July	May-June	June-August	20-30' of row	24"	5"
Chard	not suitable	Feb.-May	April-July	March-June	Feb.-May	3-4 plants	24"	12 inches
Chinese cabbage	4 weeks	July-Aug.	August	April-June	August	10-15' of row	30"	6"
Chives	6 weeks	April-May	March-May	April-July	Feb.-March	1 clump	Needs 4 sq ft	Scatter
Corn (sweet)	not suitable	April-May	April-June	May-June	April 15-June	4 rows, 20-30' long	36"	15"
Cucumbers (slicing)	4 weeks	April-June	May-June	May-June	April 15-June	6 plants	48"	24"
Cucumbers (pickling)	4 weeks	May	May-June	May-June	April 15-June	25' of row	48"	6-12"
Dill	not suitable	May	May	May	May	25' of row	24"	6-9"
Eggplants	9 weeks	not suitable	May	not suitable	May	4-6 plants	24"	24"
Endive	6 weeks	March-July	April-Aug. 15	April-July	August	10-15' of row	12"	10"
Garlic	not suitable	Sept.-Oct.	Sept.-Feb.	Aug.-Sept.	Nov.-Feb.	10-20' of row	18"	3"
Kale	not suitable	May-July	May-July	May-July	May-July	20-30' of row	24"	24"
Kohlrabi	not suitable	July-Aug.	April-Aug. 15	May	April-Aug.	10-15' of row	24"	3"
Leeks	not suitable	Feb.-April	March-May	April-June	Jan.-April	10' of row	24"	2"
Lettuce (head)	5 weeks	Feb.-July	April-July	April-Aug.	Feb.-April	10-15' of row	12"	12"
Lettuce (leaf)	5 weeks	Feb.-Aug.	April-Aug.	April-Aug.	Feb.-April	10-15' of row	12"	6"
Okra	8 weeks	not suitable	not suitable	not suitable	May	10-20' of row	24"	18"
Onions	10 weeks	Jan.-May	Mar.-May	May-June	Feb.-April	30-40' of row	12"	3"
Parsley	10 weeks	Dec.-May	Mar.-June	May-July	Feb.-May	1-2 plants	12"	8"
Parsnips	not suitable	May-June	April-May	May	Mar.-June	10-15' of row	24"	3"
Peas	not suitable	Jan.-Aug.	Feb.-May	April-June	Mar.-April	30-40' of row	36" bush 48" vine	2"
Peppers	10 weeks	May	May-June	May-June	May	5-10 plants	24"	12-18"
Potatoes (sweet)	6 weeks	not suitable	not suitable	not suitable	May	50-100' of row	48"	12"
Potatoes (white)	not suitable	Feb.-May	April-June	May-June	Mar.-June	50-100' of row	30"	12"
Pumpkins	4 weeks	May	May	June	April 15-June	1-3 plants	72"	48"
Radish	not suitable	All year	March-Sept.	April-July	Mar.-Sept.	4' of row	12"	1"
Rhubarb	Crown pieces	Dec.-Jan.	March-April	April	Feb.-March	2-3 plants	48"	36"
Rutabagas	not suitable	June-July	June-July	April-May	Mar.-July	10-15' of row	24"	3"
Spinach	not suitable	Aug.-Feb.	April & Sept.	April & July	Sept.-Jan.	10-20' of row	12"	3"
Squash (summer)	4 weeks	May	May-June	May-June	April 15-June	2-4 plants	48"	24"
Squash (winter)	4 weeks	May	May	May	April 15-May	2-4 plants	72"	48"
Tomatoes	8 weeks	May-June	May	May	May	10-15 plants	36-48", closer if supported	24-36"
Turnips	not suitable	Jan. & Aug.	Apr.-Sept.	April-May	Feb. & Aug.	10-15' of row	24"	2"
Watermelons	4 weeks	not suitable	May	not suitable	May	6 plants	72"	60"
		Zone l	Zone 2	Zone 3	Zone 4
Vegetable	Start plants this long before planting date for your region	Coast, Astoria to Brookings	Western valleys, Portland to Roseburga	High elevations, mountains, and plateaus of central and eastern Oregon	Columbia and Snake valleys, Hermiston, Pendleton, Ontario	Amount to plant for family of 4b	Distance between rowsc	Distance apart in the row

^aMedford area planting dates may be 7-10 days earlier and extend 7-10 days later than dates indicated for western valleys. ^bFor many of the crops, the amount to plant should be divided into several plantings, 1 or 2 weeks apart. 

First Harvest Community Garden: Organic Consumer Association Update

First Harvest Community Garden: Organic Consumer Association Update

oca@mail.democracyinaction.org

Organic Consumer Association Update

Organic Can Feed the World

People's Food Sovereignty Now!

Most of the world's food is not produced by industrial megafarms.75 percent of the world's food is produced by 1.5 billion small farmers.

The hunger problem is not caused by low yields. The world has 6 billion people and produces enough food for 9 billion people.

There are now 1.02 billion hungry people in the world (nearly 50 million in the US). At the same time, there are 1 billion people who are overweight, many who are obese and suffer from diet-related diseases.

Hunger and obesity are the result of the overproduction of toxic junk food, the scarcity of healthy organic food, and injustice in the way farmland and food are distributed.

While many of the world's leaders discussed the food crisis at a UN Food Summit in Rome (November 13-17, 2009), farmers, who were not part of the official delegations, took part in demonstrations outside the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) headquarters and met at an alternative forum, People's Food Sovereignty Now! The 642 participants (more than half women) from 93 countries represent the more than 1.5 billion small farmers who produce 75 per cent of the world's food.

Here's what they had to say:

We reaffirm that our ecological food provision actually feeds the large majority of people all over the world in both rural and urban areas (more than 75%). Our practices focus on food for people not profit for corporations. It is healthy, diverse, localized and cools the planet. 

...Our practices, because they prioritise feeding people locally, minimize waste and losses of food and do not create the damage caused by industrial production systems. Peasant agriculture is resilient and can adapt to and mitigate climate change...

We call for a reframing of research, using participatory methods, that will support our ecological model of food provision. We are the innovators building on our knowledge and skills. We rehabilitate local seeds systems and livestock breeds and fish/aquatic species for a changing climate... 

...We commit to shorten distances between food provider and consumer. We will strengthen urban food movements and advance urban and peri-urban agriculture. We will reclaim the language of food emphasising nutrition and diversity in diets that exclude meat provided from industrial systems.

- From the People's Food Sovereignty Now! Declaration, November 2009

Oregon Tilth Organic Gardening Classes

Please Google Oregon Tilth for gardening education and philosophy.

Organic Gardener Program

— filed under: Urban Agriculture Class

what	Urban Agriculture Class
when	Sep 09, 2010 06:30 PMto Sep 30, 2010 08:30 PM
where	Luscher Farm, West Linn, OR
contact name	oec@tilth.org
contact phone	503-779-4631
add event to calendar	vCal  iCal

Registration for the Fall COG class will open on August 9th 2010. To receive an email reminder when registration opens, email us at oec@tilth.org.

In partnership with Seattle Tilth, the Organic Education Center offers the Comprehensive Organic Gardener (COG) program to students aspiring to garden for this first time or just learn more about organic techniques on a home-garden scale. The curriculum merges scientific and practical information with an emphasis on hands-on practice. This unique and popular course is designed to give the beginning gardener an introduction into the dynamic world of organic gardening and an opportunity to get their hands dirty in the process! 

Classes will be taught at Luscher Farm:

125 Rosemont Road West Linn Oregon 97068

September 9th - 30th: Thursdays 6:30 - 8:30 pm and Saturdays 10:00 am - 3:00 pm    

$250 or $225 for Lake Oswego residents & Tilth members

Limited number of scholarships available upon request

Learn basic concepts involved in organic food gardening including building healthy soil, garden planning and crop rotation, planting techniques, season extension and other methods for gardening year round, organic pest and disease control, water conservation and seed saving.  By the end of class participants should be ready to install and plant a veggie garden!

All class participants receive:

• The Comprehensive Organic Gardener Course notebook full of useful handouts and resources
• The Maritime Northwest Garden Guide, a year-round vegetable planting guide for our region
• A certificate upon completion

Coping With Club Root

Club Root is a universal problem for brassicas:  cauliflower, broccoli, kale, mustard, etc. You notice it when your leaves turn yellow and wilt.  The plant eventually loses its structure and dies.  When you look  at the roots, there will be small ball like structures on the roots.  Once you have clubroot on your plot I'm afraid you are stuck with it. The good news is that you can, in most instances continue to grow brassicas successfully with careful cultivation and crop rotation. (I have heard it suggested that crop rotations start at four and be as much as seven years for large gardens) It is a bit more difficult for raised bed growers.

First practice good hygiene. When your brassicas are finished carefully remove all the roots and do not compost them, either treat as household waste or incinerate. Remember that the affected family includes radishes and mustard, do not use a mustard green manure and remove radishes that have gone over promptly and do not compost them. This will reduce the reservoir of the organism in the soil.

Start your brassicas off in modules using bought in composts to which a small amount of lime has been added and pot up to 3" and then at least 5" pots before planting out. This allows the plant to develop a good root system prior to infection.

Clubroot thrives best in acid wet soils so ensure your brassica bed is well dug adding grit if need be to keep the soil free draining, Take the pH up to 7.5 or even as high as 8.5 by adding lime (see the information on garden lime). Before planting, dig a hole at least 30cm deep and in diameter and then dust with lime to whiten the soil in the hole. Fill the hole with bought in multi-purpose compost and then plant in this.

This method has been proven to work and enable good quality crops to be taken - even prize winning cauliflowers. It is a lot of work and you may feel that just growing completely in containers is your best solution.