WONDERFULLY!
Just 4 weeks later and see how the veggies grow. I am
enjoying this experience VERY much… not to mention the treat of eating and
sharing the bounty…
Saturday, September 14, 2013
Monday, August 12, 2013
Planting a Fall Garden
I have never planted a fall garden, yet searching the
internet I find that here on the Oregon coast there is the wonderful opportunity
to do so. We rarely experience hard freezes until late December or early
January which lends itself well to crops planted in August or September. Under
TIME TO SEED FOR FALL (below) see a list
of possible veggies you may want to plant for your fall garden.
Extending the
joy of a summer garden by putting in a fall garden is great. Or perhaps start
your first community garden experience, as I have, with a fall garden; I am finding it a real
treat.
For a lot of helpful information visit: FALL AND WINTER GARDENING IN THE PACIFIC NORTH
WEST,
Thursday, July 11, 2013
Needed: Someone to compost
The Community Garden on Second Street is in need of a dedicated composter. Please pitch in if you have the strength!
Also, there is a box available. You can call me, Joann, at 997-2997 to sign up.
Thanks
Also, there is a box available. You can call me, Joann, at 997-2997 to sign up.
Thanks
Time To Seed for Fall
The season is moving along quickly and it is sometimes hard to know where we are in the planting cycle. We've had a very different spring/summer this year.
There are things that can be planted now as seed. I obtained this list from Down to Earth. I assume it is for the valley, but I believe we can do just as well here:
Arugula, Asian greens, basil, green onions, lettuce, swiss chard, beets. broccoli, cabbage, carrots cauliflower, cilantro, collards, fennel, kale, kohlrabi, parsley, parsnips, peas!, radish, rutabage, spinach, turnips.
I am a sort of seat of the pants gardener. I put my finger in the air to see which way the wind is blowing and plant. So far I've had good luck with most of these.
Starts can be put in now for artichokes, chives, cucumbers, dill, eggplant, leeks, parsley, pumpkins, squash, and tomatoes.
This the best time to plant starts for basil, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, corn, kale and peppers.
I think I would take exception to eggplant, tomatoes, corn and pepper starts. Our nights have been so cool. Unless you have a bed covered with perforated plastic or a greenhouse, you might want to pass.
Good luck.
There are things that can be planted now as seed. I obtained this list from Down to Earth. I assume it is for the valley, but I believe we can do just as well here:
Arugula, Asian greens, basil, green onions, lettuce, swiss chard, beets. broccoli, cabbage, carrots cauliflower, cilantro, collards, fennel, kale, kohlrabi, parsley, parsnips, peas!, radish, rutabage, spinach, turnips.
I am a sort of seat of the pants gardener. I put my finger in the air to see which way the wind is blowing and plant. So far I've had good luck with most of these.
Starts can be put in now for artichokes, chives, cucumbers, dill, eggplant, leeks, parsley, pumpkins, squash, and tomatoes.
This the best time to plant starts for basil, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, collards, corn, kale and peppers.
I think I would take exception to eggplant, tomatoes, corn and pepper starts. Our nights have been so cool. Unless you have a bed covered with perforated plastic or a greenhouse, you might want to pass.
Good luck.
New Community Garden Site
There is a new community garden brewing on 15th Street at the old Senior Center site. This is a City collaboration with gardeners. The City will be tearing up asphalt in the front part of the site where sun is available. Water will be available off the meter. We have Rotary backing and some funds for deer fencing and boxes, starting with twenty or thirty, and ultimately as many as 80.
We are hoping to solicit funds from businesses for the development of boxes for those who are low income. And we will be needing help with the building of fences and boxes, pulling weeds etc.. If you are interested in participating in any way, please call me at 997-2997. Thanks. Joann Henderson
Sunday, June 30, 2013
SB 633 Failed, HB 2427 passed
SB 633 died in Committee before the end of the session. We are all celebrating. Thanks to all who wrote or called our legislators to tell them what a bad bill this was. Apparently they had more feed-back on this bill than any other-bar none. Good work everyone!
But it is feared this bill will come back in a new form in February, so stay tuned.We may have to start over again.
But it is feared this bill will come back in a new form in February, so stay tuned.We may have to start over again.
(SB 633: Makes legislative finding and declaration that regulation of agricultural seed, flower seed, nursery seed and vegetable seed and products of agricultural seed, flower seed, nursery seed and vegetable seed be reserved to state. Prohibits enactment or enforcement of local measures to regulate agricultural seed, flower seed, nursery seed and vegetable seed or products of agricultural seed, flower seed, nursery seed and vegetable seed.)
HB2427, the ban canola in the Willamette Vally bill was passed with an amendment. OSU will be able to plant canola (we think non-GMO) on 500 acres within the Protected Zone, for the purpose of study for the next three years. They will be funded by lottery money. The over all prohibition on planting in the protected zone will continue until 2019.
HB2427, the ban canola in the Willamette Vally bill was passed with an amendment. OSU will be able to plant canola (we think non-GMO) on 500 acres within the Protected Zone, for the purpose of study for the next three years. They will be funded by lottery money. The over all prohibition on planting in the protected zone will continue until 2019.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
For the Vegetarian Gardener
Many of our members grow their own fruits and vegetables at home as well as at the Community Garden. We share the same philosophy about knowing the source of our food and how it is grown. Because we are not allowed to use chemical fertilizers in our garden boxes, I found the following article which seems to be quite helpful in sorting out what to use in different soil conditions.
These days, even using animal fertilizers is questionable...blood and bone meal come from cow offal, and we all know that mad cow disease is related to these cow remains. Fish fertilizer can be heavily contaminated with:
- metals such as mercury and lead,
- industrial chemicals such as PCBs, and
- pesticides such as DDT and dieldrin.
So the following link will take you to an article that may help you figure out what fertilizers you can use for your soil conditions that are not chemical or animal based: http://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/article/Is-Your-Garden-Vegetarian-Alternatives-to-2890979.php#page-1
Enjoy! ~admin~
Thursday, February 7, 2013
Ten Steps to Starting a Community Garden
The following steps are adapted from the American Community Garden Association's guidelines
for launching a successful community garden in your neighborhood.
1. ORGANIZE A MEETING OF INTERESTED PEOPLE
Determine whether a garden is really needed and wanted, what kind it should be (vegetable, flower, both, organic?), whom it will involve and who benefits. Invite neighbors, tenants, communit}^ organizations, gardening and horticultural societies, building superintendents (if it is at an apartment building)—in other words, anyone who is likely to be interested.
2. FORM A PLANNING COMMITTEE
This group can be comprised of people who feel committed to the creation of the garden and have the time to devote to it, at least at this initial stage. Choose well-organized persons as garden coordinators. Form committees to tackle specific tasks: funding and parmerships, youth activities, construction and communication.
3. IDENTIFY ALL YOUR RESOURCES
Do a community asset assessment. What skills and resources already exist in the community that can aid in the garden's creation? Contact local municipal planners about possible sites, as well as horticultural societies and other local sources of information and assistance. Look within your community for people with experience in landscaping and gardening.
4. APPROACH A SPONSOR
Some gardens "self-support" through membership dues, but for many, a sponsor is essential for donations of tools, seeds or money. Churches, schools, private businesses or parks and recreation departments are all possible supporters. One garden raised money by selling "square inches" at $5 each to hundreds of sponsors.
5. CHOOSE A SITE
Consider the amount of daily sunshine (vegetables need at least six hours a day), availability of water, and soil testing for possible pollutants. Find out who owns the land. Can the gardeners get a lease agreement for at least three years? Will public liability insurance be necessary?
6.PREPARE AND DEVELOP THE SITE
In most cases, the land will need considerable preparation for planting. Organize volunteer work crews to clean it, gather materials and decide on the design and plot arrangement.
7. ORGANIZE THE GARDEN
Members must decide how many plots are available and how they will be assigned. Allow space for storing tools, making compost and don't forget the pathways between plots! Plant flowers or shrubs around the garden's edges to promote good will with non-gardening neighbors, passersby and municipal authorities.
8. PLAN FOR CHILDREN
Consider creating a special garden just for kids—including them is essential. Children are not as interested in the size of the harvest, but rather in the process of gardening. A separate area set aside for them allows them to explore the garden at their own speed.
9. DETERMINE RULES AND PUT THEM IN WRITING
The gardeners themselves devise the best ground rules. We are more willing to comply with rules that we have had a hand in creating. Ground rules help gardeners to know what is expected of them. Think of it as a code of behavior. Some examples of issues that are best dealt with by agreed upon rules are: Dues, how will the money be used? How are plots assigned? Will gardeners share tools, meet regularly, handle basic maintenance?
10. HELP MEMBERS KEEP IN TOUCH WITH EACH OTHER
Good communication ensures a strong community garden with active participation by all. Some ways to do this are: form a telephone tree, create an email list; install a rainproof bulletin board in the garden; have regular celebrations. Community gardens are all about creating and strengthening communities.
1. ORGANIZE A MEETING OF INTERESTED PEOPLE
Determine whether a garden is really needed and wanted, what kind it should be (vegetable, flower, both, organic?), whom it will involve and who benefits. Invite neighbors, tenants, communit}^ organizations, gardening and horticultural societies, building superintendents (if it is at an apartment building)—in other words, anyone who is likely to be interested.
2. FORM A PLANNING COMMITTEE
This group can be comprised of people who feel committed to the creation of the garden and have the time to devote to it, at least at this initial stage. Choose well-organized persons as garden coordinators. Form committees to tackle specific tasks: funding and parmerships, youth activities, construction and communication.
3. IDENTIFY ALL YOUR RESOURCES
Do a community asset assessment. What skills and resources already exist in the community that can aid in the garden's creation? Contact local municipal planners about possible sites, as well as horticultural societies and other local sources of information and assistance. Look within your community for people with experience in landscaping and gardening.
4. APPROACH A SPONSOR
Some gardens "self-support" through membership dues, but for many, a sponsor is essential for donations of tools, seeds or money. Churches, schools, private businesses or parks and recreation departments are all possible supporters. One garden raised money by selling "square inches" at $5 each to hundreds of sponsors.
5. CHOOSE A SITE
Consider the amount of daily sunshine (vegetables need at least six hours a day), availability of water, and soil testing for possible pollutants. Find out who owns the land. Can the gardeners get a lease agreement for at least three years? Will public liability insurance be necessary?
6.PREPARE AND DEVELOP THE SITE
In most cases, the land will need considerable preparation for planting. Organize volunteer work crews to clean it, gather materials and decide on the design and plot arrangement.
7. ORGANIZE THE GARDEN
Members must decide how many plots are available and how they will be assigned. Allow space for storing tools, making compost and don't forget the pathways between plots! Plant flowers or shrubs around the garden's edges to promote good will with non-gardening neighbors, passersby and municipal authorities.
8. PLAN FOR CHILDREN
Consider creating a special garden just for kids—including them is essential. Children are not as interested in the size of the harvest, but rather in the process of gardening. A separate area set aside for them allows them to explore the garden at their own speed.
9. DETERMINE RULES AND PUT THEM IN WRITING
The gardeners themselves devise the best ground rules. We are more willing to comply with rules that we have had a hand in creating. Ground rules help gardeners to know what is expected of them. Think of it as a code of behavior. Some examples of issues that are best dealt with by agreed upon rules are: Dues, how will the money be used? How are plots assigned? Will gardeners share tools, meet regularly, handle basic maintenance?
10. HELP MEMBERS KEEP IN TOUCH WITH EACH OTHER
Good communication ensures a strong community garden with active participation by all. Some ways to do this are: form a telephone tree, create an email list; install a rainproof bulletin board in the garden; have regular celebrations. Community gardens are all about creating and strengthening communities.
American Community Gardening Association
Ten Tools Every Community Gardener & Garden Needs Courtesy of Toronto FoodShare
Gardeners may not agree on the best mulch or the perfect fertilize, but there's one thing that every gardener agrees on: when it comes time to purchase tools, buy the best. Quality garden tools are an investment that yields dividends over time. Here are the top ten gardening tools every community garden should have:
Ten Tools Every Community Gardener & Garden Needs Courtesy of Toronto FoodShare
Gardeners may not agree on the best mulch or the perfect fertilize, but there's one thing that every gardener agrees on: when it comes time to purchase tools, buy the best. Quality garden tools are an investment that yields dividends over time. Here are the top ten gardening tools every community garden should have:
1. Trowel A well-made trowel
is your most important tool. From container gardening
to large beds, a trowel will help you get your plants into the soil. Essential for everyone.
3. Handled Hoe A long-handled hoe is a gardener's best friend. Keeping weeds at bay is the purpose of this useful tool. Hoe heads come in all different shapes and sizes and every gardener swears by a different one.
4. Secateurs (aka Hand pruners) Invest in a pair of quality pruners, such as Felco, which is clearly a cut above. There are different types and sizes depending upon the type and size of the job. Secateurs are for cutting small diameters, up to the thickness of your little finger ;-). Anything larger and you need loppers.
5. Watering can A watering can create a fine, even stream of water that delivers with a gentleness that won't wassh seedlings or sprouting seeds out of their soil.
2. Hand Fork or Claw or CultivatorA hand fork helps cultivate soil, chop up clumps, and work
amendments into the soil. A hand fork is necessary for closely planted beds.
3. Handled Hoe A long-handled hoe is a gardener's best friend. Keeping weeds at bay is the purpose of this useful tool. Hoe heads come in all different shapes and sizes and every gardener swears by a different one.
4. Secateurs (aka Hand pruners) Invest in a pair of quality pruners, such as Felco, which is clearly a cut above. There are different types and sizes depending upon the type and size of the job. Secateurs are for cutting small diameters, up to the thickness of your little finger ;-). Anything larger and you need loppers.
5. Watering can A watering can create a fine, even stream of water that delivers with a gentleness that won't wassh seedlings or sprouting seeds out of their soil.
6. Fork You can't dig and divide perennials without a heavy-duty fork (and some
dividing methods even suggest you own two!).
7. Shovels & Spades There are several different types and shapes of shovels
and spades, each with their own purpose. There are
also different types of hand holds for either—a " D" shape or "T" shape, or none at all. They are a requisite tool for planting large shrubs, trees, large perennials, moving soils and leaves, breaking round--just about anything. The sharper the blade, the better.
8. Wheelbarrow Wheelbarrows
come in all different sizes (and prices). They are
indispensable for hauling soil, compost, plants, mulch, hoses, tools...everything you'll need to garden.
9. Gloves Unless you want to wear
your favorite hobby under vour nails, use gloves.
Leather gloves hold up best. If you have roses, get a pair that resist thorn pricks.
10. Hoses This is the fastest way to transport lots of
water. Consider using drip irrigation hoses or tape,
Abundant Garden Help
Gracious thanks to Bart Mealer at Food Share for sharing this information.
The Book of Garden Secrets- Patent and Bilderback, great information about growing nearly ever vegetable crop
Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades - Steve Solomon, the resource for gardening in our area, comprehensive and well-tested guidelines.
How to Grow More Vegetables- John Jeavons Using the bio-intensive method, John Jeavons shows how to grow enough veggies to feed a family o f four on 800 square feet.
The Organic Gardeners Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control - Barbara Ellis and Fern Marshall Bradley, helpful resource covering insect and disease problems
Seed To Seed - Suzanne Ashworth, a primer on saving seed with lots of interesting history on the development of different vegetable crops. And great photos!
Winter Gardening - Binda Colebook, the first book written about winter gardening
Worms Eat My Garbage - Mary Appelhof, great info and inspiration for raising
worms and creating compost.
Rebel Tomato, www.communitygarden.org/rebeltomato/
OSU/ Lane County Extension Service, www.extension.oregonstate.edu/lane/
Seed Ambassadors Seeding Guide www.seedambassadors.org/
Mainpages/Guardian/SeedingGuide/springseeding.htm
Special Note: The Oregon Trail Card/ SNAP program can be used to buy seeds and plant starts anywhere food is sold.
Territorial Seed Company - www.territorialseed.com
Osborne International Seed Company- www.osborneseed.com
Harris Seeds - www.hamsseeds
Johnny's Selected Seeds - vvww.johnnyseeds.com
High Mowing Organic Seeds - www.highmowingseeds.com
Wild Garden Seeds - www.wildgardenseed.com
Norcal Nursery, Sakuma Brothers Farms - (360) 757-6611 (Strawberries, Cane Crops)
Irwin and Sons Ag. Supply (541)345-1887 (Potatoes, Cover Crop)
Down to Earth Nursery— www.honie2garden.com
FOOD for Lane County Gardens Program Resources
Books:
Four Season Harvest- Eliot Coleman, an excellent resource for growing food year roundThe Book of Garden Secrets- Patent and Bilderback, great information about growing nearly ever vegetable crop
Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades - Steve Solomon, the resource for gardening in our area, comprehensive and well-tested guidelines.
How to Grow More Vegetables- John Jeavons Using the bio-intensive method, John Jeavons shows how to grow enough veggies to feed a family o f four on 800 square feet.
The Organic Gardeners Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control - Barbara Ellis and Fern Marshall Bradley, helpful resource covering insect and disease problems
Seed To Seed - Suzanne Ashworth, a primer on saving seed with lots of interesting history on the development of different vegetable crops. And great photos!
Winter Gardening - Binda Colebook, the first book written about winter gardening
Worms Eat My Garbage - Mary Appelhof, great info and inspiration for raising
worms and creating compost.
Websites:
American Community Gardening Association, www.communitygarden.orgRebel Tomato, www.communitygarden.org/rebeltomato/
OSU/ Lane County Extension Service, www.extension.oregonstate.edu/lane/
Seed Ambassadors Seeding Guide www.seedambassadors.org/
Mainpages/Guardian/SeedingGuide/springseeding.htm
Seeds/ Plants:
Special Note: The Oregon Trail Card/ SNAP program can be used to buy seeds and plant starts anywhere food is sold.
Territorial Seed Company - www.territorialseed.com
Osborne International Seed Company- www.osborneseed.com
Harris Seeds - www.hamsseeds
Johnny's Selected Seeds - vvww.johnnyseeds.com
High Mowing Organic Seeds - www.highmowingseeds.com
Wild Garden Seeds - www.wildgardenseed.com
Norcal Nursery, Sakuma Brothers Farms - (360) 757-6611 (Strawberries, Cane Crops)
Irwin and Sons Ag. Supply (541)345-1887 (Potatoes, Cover Crop)
Down to Earth Nursery— www.honie2garden.com
Local (Eugene)schools may have greenhouses and bedding plants available for free.
America the Beautiful Fund distributes free seeds www.freeseeds.us/OperationGPform.html
202-638-1649
Other seed companies may distribute free seeds
Eugene Permaculture Guild sponsors periodic seed swaps,www.eugenepennacultureguild.org
Down to Earth Distributors - www.downtoearthdistributors.com
Diess Feed and Seed - (541) 343-5007
Konyn Dairy- (541) 683-7241
City of Eugene leaf recycling program- www.eugene-or.gov/leaf 682-5383 Wood chips,
Contact area tree pruners, including Sperry Tree Care, www.sperrytreecare.com 461-1737
BRING Recycling - www.bringrecycling.org
McConkey Company - 1-866- 552-1113
Nursery Cormection - www.nurservconnection.net
OBC Northwest - www.obcnw.com
Oregon Valley Greenhouses — www.ovg.com
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply - uww.groworganic.com
Down to Earth Retail Stores - www.home2garden.com
Victory Gardens: creating gardens for anyone in the area who requests one, www.victorvgardensforall.org
FOOD for Lane County Gardens, 343-2822; www•foodforlanecountv.org/programsigardens
-----workshops, info and garden tours
Eugene Permaculture Guild, www.eugenepermacultureguild.org offers a resource sharing list-serve, seed swaps and workshops
$30 per soil sample
America the Beautiful Fund distributes free seeds www.freeseeds.us/OperationGPform.html
202-638-1649
Other seed companies may distribute free seeds
Eugene Permaculture Guild sponsors periodic seed swaps,www.eugenepennacultureguild.org
Amendments/ Fertilizers:
Rexius Forest By- Products - www.rexius.comDown to Earth Distributors - www.downtoearthdistributors.com
Diess Feed and Seed - (541) 343-5007
Konyn Dairy- (541) 683-7241
City of Eugene leaf recycling program- www.eugene-or.gov/leaf 682-5383 Wood chips,
Contact area tree pruners, including Sperry Tree Care, www.sperrytreecare.com 461-1737
Greenhouse/ Gardening Supplies/ Tools:
Jerry's Home Improvement Center - www.jerryshome.comBRING Recycling - www.bringrecycling.org
McConkey Company - 1-866- 552-1113
Nursery Cormection - www.nurservconnection.net
OBC Northwest - www.obcnw.com
Oregon Valley Greenhouses — www.ovg.com
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply - uww.groworganic.com
Down to Earth Retail Stores - www.home2garden.com
Gardening Know How and Help:
Oregon State University Extension Service, Lane County: 682-4247, phone line and workshops, extension.oregonstate.edu/laneVictory Gardens: creating gardens for anyone in the area who requests one, www.victorvgardensforall.org
FOOD for Lane County Gardens, 343-2822; www•foodforlanecountv.org/programsigardens
-----workshops, info and garden tours
Eugene Permaculture Guild, www.eugenepermacultureguild.org offers a resource sharing list-serve, seed swaps and workshops
Soil Testing:
A&L Western Agriculture Laboratories; www.al-labs-west.com$30 per soil sample
Monday, January 28, 2013
Oppose growing canola in the Willamette Valley
My name is John Haapala, and I am an organic and small scale seed grower in Junction City Oregon. I have grown seeds for local seed companies, such as Nichols Garden Nursery, Territorial Seeds, Seeds of Change, and a number of other seed companies over the years. In addition, I worked for Oregon Tilth as a policy advocate, and helped formulate regulations requiring the use of organic seeds in the National Organic Program. In addition, I worked to put into place the Conservation Stewardship Program through the USDA/NRCS, which offers the potential for payments based upon sustainable practices. Seeds grown on my farm have included every variety of asian mustard, as well as kale, collards, broccoli, turnip, rutabaga, and other members of the Brassica family.
As a market farmer I was reliant upon the diversity of heirloom introductions and public plant breeders through the Land Grant System. There was a constant treadmill of innovation, where a new variety would sustain smaller growers with novelty only until a larger California/Sinoloa based operation would offer it in Cello bags, and drive the price down. Through innovation, we have the tools for increased yield, novelty, and crop protection all within the genome of the crop. As a research director with Oregon Tilth, I worked with Cornell and the USDA seed banks (the NPGS) to tap that innovation, and release it to local growers.
In sum, for twenty years I worked to create opportunities for local and smaller growers in high value crops and federal crop payment programs. Those seeds are now bearing fruit, and offer the double benefit of higher returns per acre and federal credit for sustainable practices.
Rules and regulations for the introduction of novel species containing genetically engineered organism must be stringent enough to protect our well established seed growing sector in the Willamette Valley. One farmer's practices cannot jeopardize another farmer's enterprise, especially when it ignores the high value crops with smaller planting sizes.
Within the USDA seed banks there are over 450,000 varieties available for exploration through traditional breeding. However, once cross-contamination with GE crops occur, those crops can no longer qualify as a resource for organic production. The introduction of pollen drift from GE crops threatens to undermine the growth in the organic industry, at a time when our canneries are closing and seed growing remains one of the most viable high value enterprises for growers on high value soils in the Willamette Valley.
Canola is a low value commodity crop that does best in Saskatchewan and Montana. While it offers viable rotations for grass seed, there is no reason that GE canola will fit that bill better than traditional canola. GE crops carry licensing restrictions that severely restrict the market opportunities of a grower.
Please protect our successful diverse seed growing industry. The Brassica family to which canola belongs, thrive in the Willamette Valley, and the pollen travels for miles. By opening the door to a single enterprise, you will shut the door on so many more.
Sincerely,
/s/ John Haapala
John E. Haapala
Heron' Nest Farm
30848 Maple Dr.
Junction City Ore 97448
541-521-7433
Growing and Seed Saving on the Coast
I recently attended a GROW meeting that was a kind of last minute thing for me, so the word didn't get out to you. I took notes, though, and I think you may be interested in some of the discussion.
Jeri Christensen, a biologist living in the Florence area, was our speaker. She was instrumental in alerting the world to the dangers of Terminator seeds and GMO's in general, and has been an adviser to Prince Charles and the King of Saudi Arabia. Now her focus is on raised bed gardening and seed saving in the Pacific North West….with an emphasis on seed saving to offset the food shortages and reliance on genetically modified food that threatens to dominate our food system. The slides of her raised beds and the size of her vegetables was impressive.
For the most part she was preaching to the choir, because some of us have been at this for awhile, as well. But her enthusiasm and commitment to growing and seed saving was a real boost for all of us.
Some of the plants that she recommended for our area are:
Siberian kale…20 plants will give you two quarts of seed.
Superschmetlz kohlrabi…a great substitute for cabbage, and I think fewer pests. Great for slaw and salads.
Lake Flat Dutch Cabbage
Japanese and Millionaire eggplants
Indigo potatoes
Red lettuce
Blueberries
Any dark blue foods are loaded with anthocyanins which are cancer fighters and just good for your health generally.
Longkeeper tomatoes.open pollinated
Bush Early Girl Tomatoes are the best
French green house tomatoes (you can get them from Johnny's Seeds)
Big Beef
Siletz Heirloom especially for seed saving
And of course, carrots, beans, mesclun. My notes say Continuity lettuce, and I don't remember if that is a kind of lettuce or my note for their growth span. At any rate, you can seed lettuce in September or put in starts in October to mature in March. Most lettuces, I think, can be grown in succession all year long here.
Beets..I grow them very successfully here. I have not yet tried to save their seeds, but that may be important now that GMO sugar beets are being grown in the valley.
Eliot Coleman's Four Season Harvest is a recommended resource for growing in our area.
And Jeri Christensen's website is arkinstitute.com. You will find a lll kinds of help on her site.
Silver Mulch
We had a bad year for pests this last season, and one of her recommendations was to buy silver mulch. It is a row cover that you put right on the soil, and cut little exes in it for your starts, or I presume for your seed if it is big enough. She had good success with keeping pests and slugs out of her beds, using this mulch. It is expensive but can be used, if taken care of, for several years.
Greenhouse Film
Another suggestion was to use greenhouse film or agro-plastic with ventilation holes for your covers . They create more heat and airflow, which is what you want for keeping out mildew, and gives protection against flying pests. Territorial Seeds and Peaceful Valley sell perforated plastic crop covers. You can get it in 50' by 6' lengths.
Grow Bags
These plastic grow bags come in small to bushel sized and are great for growing things above ground to keep out the voles and moles, if that is one of your problems. Apparently you can find them at Aqua Serene on W. 11th in Eugene. My notes are not that clear, so please call first to make sure. I think they are also available through Territorial Seeds, and maybe Down To Earth in Eugene.
Seed Saving
Keep a few of your plants in the ground until they go to mature seed. Hang them upside down in a dark place, or in a paper bag, until they are dry enough to pull off the plant. Buy flower drying desiccant from Michael's Craft store. Use one to two inches of gel in the bottom of the jar with a tissue over it, or use desiccant packets that are the same weight as the seed. Put your seeds in the jar in packets (DO NOT VACUUM PACK) and close with a new clean lid. Let them sit on your counter for about a week…could be five or six days. You want to take out a certain percentage of moisture so that the seeds will not expand in the freezer, explode and become non-viable. Then put your jars in the freezer. They will last up to 45 years. 20 kale plants will make two quarts of seed.
If you can't buy or find desiccant, you can use instant dry milk powder…one third of a jar…in its place. A good resource for seed saving is Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth.
I hope this has been helpful. You can visit her website for more information.
Good gardening! Joann
Saturday, January 12, 2013
Garden Deadlines Coming Soon
Gardeners,
Please scroll down to Archives and open the very first post on this blog. This will give you the garden guidelines and the re-assignment schedules...for old a new box holders. These schedules are different. But re-assignments are finalized very soon, and those who don't meet the deadline will lose their box unless they contact me at 541 997-2997.
Thanks. I'm looking forward to seeing all of you back this spring.
Also, we have new blood in the gardening community. Her name is Katya Reyna. She is working with the City in Urban Planning, through a program called RARE. Now we have someone who is eager to help set up more gardens. Possibly the next one will finally be at the old Senior Center location. That has been on the back burner this past fall and winter, and hopefully she will be able to get that one up and running with the City's help.
Anyone interested in having a box or two north of town should contact me. We are forming a waiting list which will help us get this project off the ground.
Thanks,
Joann Henderson
Please scroll down to Archives and open the very first post on this blog. This will give you the garden guidelines and the re-assignment schedules...for old a new box holders. These schedules are different. But re-assignments are finalized very soon, and those who don't meet the deadline will lose their box unless they contact me at 541 997-2997.
Thanks. I'm looking forward to seeing all of you back this spring.
Also, we have new blood in the gardening community. Her name is Katya Reyna. She is working with the City in Urban Planning, through a program called RARE. Now we have someone who is eager to help set up more gardens. Possibly the next one will finally be at the old Senior Center location. That has been on the back burner this past fall and winter, and hopefully she will be able to get that one up and running with the City's help.
Anyone interested in having a box or two north of town should contact me. We are forming a waiting list which will help us get this project off the ground.
Thanks,
Joann Henderson
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