Garden Box Assignments

Calling all gardeners!

Having your own source of good vegetables is more and more important these days.  And the Rotary First Harvest Community Garden is here to serve your gardening needs.

Returning gardeners, please check the Garden Guidelines in the Archives/2009/October on the left side of the page. You must have your  assignments renewed by the end of January.  If we don't hear from you, your box will be re-assigned.

The deadline for new gardeners to register is February 28th. After that date, any extra boxes will be given to those who want to have two boxes, rather than one.

This spring we will be ordering more soil,  and I will be ordering organic chicken manure wholesale for those who want it.

Through the year we have had to replace hoses and nozzles.  One gardener generously supplied a wheel barrow. And others have done Herculean work with pulling grass, laying weed barriers and chips, planting bushes and herbs, and repairing boxes out of their own pockets. Aside from these donations, Rotary First Harvest has subsidized this garden so far, and will pay for a sign to be erected. This year we are asking gardeners to make a small donation when they sign up for their boxes..up to ten dollars...to help defray our expenses.  For those who cannot afford it, we would appreciate any volunteer time they can manage. Leave a comment here to find out what our needs are.

Rotary is focussed on finding other community garden spots to put together for the community. If you know of land that is not being used, that would be a good garden spot for a neighborhood, please call David Armstrong at the Methodist Church.  At the end of January he will be making an effort to expand to other community garden areas.  Keep in mind it should be a neighborhood where people can co-operate to make it work.

Good Gardening and Happy Holidays!

Non GMO Seed

Non-GMO Seed

What seeds are at risk?
Currently, Commercialized GM Crops in the U.S. include:Soy (91%), Cotton (88%), Canola (80-85%), Corn (85%), Hawaiian papaya (more than 50%), Alfalfa, zucchini and yellow squash (small amount), and Tobacco (Quest® brand). (Number in parentheses represents the estimated percent that is genetically modified.) All but soy cross-pollinate, although pop corn and blue corn do not cross with the current GM corn varieties. And now, with the sugar beet growers going GM, there is the possibility of cross-pollination into other beet varieties and near relatives, such as chard.
It is unlikely that other seed varieties, whether organic or not are GM, though contamination may occur by cross pollination or other means from experiment and sometimes publicly undisclosed GM test plots throughout the nation.
Purchasing Non-GMO Seed
You can get non-GMO seed from companies who have signed the Safe (non-GMO) Seeds Pledge.Click here for a list of heritage, conventional and some organic sources.
Certified organic seed varieties are, by definition, GMO-free. The Organic Seed Alliance maintains a list of Sources of Organic Seeds.
Other sources:
De Dell Seeds – Organic and Non-GMO corn seed
Turtletree Seed – Biodynamic seed
Why Buy Organic Seed?
According to the Organic Seed Growers and Trade Association:
There are numerous reasons for supporting the continued development of organic seed production as well as supporting programs of plant breeding for organic production. The underlying basis for organic agriculture is the concern and interaction of the ecological effects of the inputs into our food supply. The production of conventional seed requires heavier application of chemical pesticides than their food crop counterpart as seed crops are generally in the ground longer, and being a non-food crop, the allowable levels of application are much higher. These include methyl bromide, endosulfan (both of which are banned in the EU and much of the world), metaldehyde and many other highly toxic chemicals that damage air and water quality, biological diversity, and human health. Specialty seed production takes place in highly specialized regions, such as the Skagit and Willamette Valleys of Washington and Oregon. Is it fair for those of us in organic agriculture to want our own farms and environments to be as free of toxins as possible, but expect seed production communities to carry a heavy toxic load so that we can plant cheap conventional seed?
However, there is a better reason for supporting investment in and usage of organic seed than the prevention of ecological contamination. Organic agriculture as a whole will find even greater success as we develop truly organic cultivars – organic not just because the seed was produced on organic ground and sold by a company certified to handle organic inputs – but cultivars adapted for low inputs, that exhibit elasticity in the face of environmental extremes, enhance the health of local food systems by extending seasons, increase crop quality (including processing), and that have improved nutritional content. Organic seed adds to the value of organic farming by focusing breeding and selection on traits that are economically and agronomically important to the organic grower and ultimately to the organic consumer, traits that are often neglected in conventional breeding programs.
Certified organic growers are not allowed to have GMO's in their seeds. Further, these following members of the Organic Seed Growers and Trade Alliance (OSGATA) have signed onto a code of ethics and are engaged in preserving the integrity of seed above and beyond profit-market interest. OSGATA develops, protects and promotes the organic seed trade and its growers, and assures that the organic community has access to excellent quality organic seed, free of contaminants and adapted to the diverse needs of local organic agriculture.
In addition to not allowing GMOs in their seeds, members of the Organic Seed Growers and Trade Alliance (OSGATA) have signed onto a code of ethics and are engaged in preserving the integrity of seed above and beyond profit-market interest. OSGATA develops, protects and promotes the organic seed trade and its growers, and assures that the organic community has access to excellent quality organic seed, free of contaminants and adapted to the diverse needs of local organic agriculture.
OSGATA Member List

Safe Seed Source List: Your Resource for GM-Free Seeds »

The Next G.R.O.W. Meeting

The next G.R.O.W. meeting will be on January 10 at the Bromley Room/Siuslaw Library, at 5:30 PM.  This will not conflict with a Co-op Board meeting.


Notes form the November 29the meeting:

John discussed having non-structured boards and staying as creative as possible in how it is run. Whenever there is a vote which needs to be taken regarding some important issue, we will need a quorum in order to vote, so we should decide how many people we need to make that vote count. Since our group is not run by any one particular person, it is important that we all share and have the ability to freely express our ideas, opinions and passions. As we work on the structure of this group, agendas will be formed. Anyone who wishes to be put on an agenda can contact Joann at 997-2997.

Steve informed us that Cynthia has sponsored a 1 year subscription to a web page and they have entitled it Grow-Share.org. They spent quite a bit of time trying to find something that was not being used and which kept with what this group is about. Thank you to Cynthia for this generous contribution and to Steve for working on this with her. 

Most of the group can be contacted via email, however, there are a few who do not have access to computers. Communication with them must be made by phone or mail. A phone tree has been set up with Joann, Ann and Karen. Rene also said she would help with that. Let's all talk.

John discussed a little bit about global warming and how Florence will be less affected by it. He has been doing some research on this subject and you may want to talk to him further about what he has learned. 

As we discussed, starting July, 2012, Miller Park will be closing. What this means is that there will not be the funds to upkeep the park in the same manner as it has been for many years. There will remain one full time employee who will manage the park but all others will be volunteer. As swing sets, etc. start to deteriorate to the point of becoming dangerous, they will not be replaced but taken out. It is important that all of us show our faces and support at City Hall meetings regarding this issue and what it will mean to our town. Matt Kennedy was present at the last town hall meeting and brought up the idea of creating a community garden in the park, which was met positively. How this will be accomplished requires much discussion along with creative ideas. Much good can come when we all gather together and show our support for this community garden by attending these city hall meetings. At our next meeting, we can discuss going to the next town hall meeting and being put on the agenda.

Joann will be contacting David Armstrong who might be able to offer counsel us as to how to proceed. John mentioned that creating an experimental garden in the park would help us to see what will work in that micro-climate as well as helping us to learn about new types of food we can grow here on the coast. Because the park has so few trees, creating windbreaks would help to protect the plants as well. Schools in the area could see firsthand how the garden is doing and possibly want to create their own garden, which would give the children a hands on approach to growing their own food. 

Fertilizer and compost will be ordered in January and can be picked up at Food Share. Ann and Bart will be organizing this. We will receive this in pallet lots at cost and it comes in large square bales. John and Maria will get us the pricing.

John & Maria are putting together an order for plants. He discussed a few:

1. Cornelian cherries (Dogwood), which are frost hearty, tear dropped fruits

2. Aronia bushes ($4.50 ea.) are great plants to grow. Not overly sweet but better nutritionally than cranberries. 

    "No food is more nutritious", says John.

3. Sea Buckthorn

4. Goumi Bush (Autumn Olive family) can be made into raisins when dried.  It is a nitrogen producing plant, has no mold problems, is easy to grow and very productive.

5. Mulberry- requires no pollination. Fruits in 3-4 years. When good angled limbs are maintained, the branches will not break and they product abundant fruit. ($8.00 ea)

To avoid slugs, copper tape placed around the bottom of trees works well.

Interesting books to read:

"The Gerson Therapy" - Charlotte Gerson

"Creating a Forest Garden" - Marin Crawford

"The Healing Intelligence of Essential Oils" - Kurt Schnaubelt, PhD.

We all thought showing interesting movies about the latest theories on food, etc. would be nice to incorporate in some of our meetings. 

Moderator for next meeting:  Pat Stutzman

Please come and bring your thoughts and ideas.

Climate Change Causing Tree Migration

This article was sent to me by a friend.  It is significant in that it is a larger indicator of what is happening on a smaller scale in our personal environments.

Contact: Richard Waring

richard.waring@oregonstate.edu

541-737-6087

Oregon State University

Climate change causing massive movement of tree species across the West

CORVALLIS, Ore. – A huge "migration" of trees has begun across much of

the West due to global warming, insect attack, diseases and fire, and

many tree species are projected to decline or die out in regions where

they have been present for centuries, while others move in and replace

them.

In an enormous display of survival of the fittest, the forests of the

future are taking a new shape.

In a new report, scientists outline the impact that a changing climate

will have on which tree species can survive, and where. The study

suggests that many species that were once able to survive and thrive

are losing their competitive footholds, and opportunistic newcomers

will eventually push them out.

In some cases, once-common species such as lodgepole pine will be

replaced by other trees, perhaps a range expansion of ponderosa pine

or Douglas-fir. Other areas may shift completely out of forest into

grass savannah or sagebrush desert. In central California, researchers

concluded that more than half of the species now present would not be

expected to persist in the climate conditions of the future.

"Some of these changes are already happening, pretty fast and in some

huge areas," said Richard Waring, professor emeritus at Oregon State

University and lead author of the study. "In some cases the mechanism

of change is fire or insect attack, in others it's simply drought.

"We can't predict exactly which tree (species) will die or which one

will take its place, but we can see the long-term trends and

probabilities," Waring said. "The forests of our future are going to

look quite different."

Waring said tree species that are native to a local area or region are

there because they can most effectively compete with other species

given the specific conditions of temperature, precipitation, drought,

cold-tolerance and many other factors that favor one species over

another in that location.

As those climatic conditions change, species that have been

established for centuries or millennia will lose their competitive

edge, Waring said, and slowly but surely decline or disappear.

This survey, done with remote sensing of large areas over a four-year

period, compared 15 coniferous tree species that are found widely

across much of the West in Canada and the United States. The research

explored impacts on 34 different "eco-regions" ranging from the

Columbia Plateau to the Sierra Nevada, Snake River Plain and Yukon

Highlands.

It projected which tree species would be at highest risk of

disturbance in a future that's generally expected to be 5-9 degrees

Fahrenheit warmer by 2080, with perhaps somewhat more precipitation in

the winter and spring, and less during the summer.

Among the findings:

    Some of the greatest shifts in tree species are expected to occur

in both the northern and southern extremes of this area, such as

British Columbia, Alberta, and California.

    Large declines are expected in lodgepole pine and Engelmann

spruce, and more temperate species such as Douglas-fir and western

hemlock may expand their ranges.

    Many wilderness areas are among those at risk of the greatest

changes, and will probably be the first to experience major shifts in

tree species.

    Some of the mild, wetter areas of western Oregon and Washington

will face less overall species change than areas of the West with a

harsher climate.

    More than half of the evergreen species are experiencing a

significant decrease in their competitiveness in six eco-regions.

    Conditions have become more favorable for outbreaks of diseases and insects.

    Warming will encourage growth at higher elevations and latitudes,

and increased drought at the other extremes. Fire frequency will

continue to increase across the West, and any tree species lacking

drought resistance will face special challenges.

"Ecosystems are always changing at the landscape level, but normally

the rate of change is too slow for humans to notice," said Steven

Running, the University of Montana Regents Professor and a co-author

of the study. "Now the rate of change is fast enough we can see it."

Even though the rate of change has increased, these processes will

take time, the scientists said. A greater stability of forest

composition will not be attained anytime soon, perhaps for centuries.

"There's not a lot we can do to really control these changes," Waring

said. "For instance, to keep old trees alive during drought or insect

attacks that they are no longer able to deal with, you might have to

thin the forest and remove up to half the trees. These are very

powerful forces at work."

One of the best approaches to plan for an uncertain future, the

researchers said, is to maintain "connective corridors" as much as

possible so that trees can naturally migrate to new areas in a

changing future and not be stopped by artificial boundaries.

###

Also collaborating on the research was Nicholas Coops at the

University of British Columbia. The work has been supported by NASA,

and the study is being published in two professional journals,

Ecological Modeling and Remote Sensing of Environment.

G.R.O.W

Recently I have come to know the passion of John and Maria Yager for growing food and turning on  the rest of the world to growing food as well. Greenfields Farm, on Fiddle Creek Road, is an adventure to get to.  At the end of the journey, a five mile stretch of dirt road, that will challenge any paint job, ends in abundant fields of chard, kale, tomatoes, squash, corn....exotic berries and apples...and any number of known and unknown edible varieties of plants.  Fortunately they have been working this farm for some years, and we are heirs to knowledge about how gardening works. And we benefit from the Yagers' Farmers Market produce and their undying attempts to educate and help anyone do it on their own. Recently we helped them get their apple harvest in and cider pressed.

The food supply in the United States has not been as impacted as in some countries.  But prices are rising, and our poorer folks will have a harder time getting nutritional food.  In times like this many people begin to rely on cheap processed foods to get them through....foods which are high in sugars, fats and any number of unnecessary additives.  They affect our health in the form of diabetes, obesity and heart disease, and are ultimately more expensive.  Gardening education and encouraging homegrown gardens could be the answer for many people.  And food tastes better!  It's amazing how simple it is to put seeds in the ground and find wholesome, delicious plants a few weeks later.

We have begun a group called G.R.O.W. to help introduce food producing plants, shrubs and trees into our local public and private landscapes.  Every spring we will offer the opportunity to buy organic chicken manure wholesale, and this fall and winter we are buying food bearing plants, shrubs and trees wholesale. Members of the group are available for all kinds of information about growing your own food. It is a loose organization at present,  meeting bi-weekly, and all are welcome.  Let's turn our town into a garden paradise!

We also have information from Evan Garrett about building greenhouses.  Email him at evangarret@hotmail.com for information.

John Yager recently introduced us to Seaberries, a German favorite for its high Vitamin C, D, and E content... great for juice and jams.  The Seaberry is a beautiful shrub and will add to any landscape.  It is four to eight feel tall, depending on the variety, very willowy with lanceolate grey-green leaves.  The abundant orange berries grow in clusters along the stem.  You can try them at the local Saturday Market at John and Maria's booth.  Some of us have just received our first Seaberry shrubs.

If you're interested in coming to the meetings or getting on a contact list for plants, please call John at 541 902-8815.  The next meeting will be held at the Bromley Room of the library, November 22 at 5:30 PM in the library's Bromley Room. Or call Joann Henderson at 997-2997 (or email giovanna@oregonfast.net.)

Here are notes from the last meeting:

John Yager said he would like to see a self sufficient Florence creating more food and biodiversity, with children and families planting and tending gardens in public spaces. We need to involve people and teach the use of permaculture techniques in our landscape.

          He talked about Devil's Club which is growing in our area and has beneficial
          anti-microbial qualities in the spines and berries.                                                                                                         

Several people with established community programs want to be involved in the GROW group, ie. Pat and Glen Stewart from "Helping Hands", Bart Healer from Food Share, Debbie Sherman, a social worker, who wants to get housing and programs for the 69 + homeless children here in Florence, and Danyel Hummel from the Food for Lane County Community Food Asssessment program. 

• We talked about Amazon Gardens and plants in California as part of a Big Garden that the Indians tended to maintain a balanced eco-system.  Tending The Wild is a reference on that subject.

• We discussed the need for space to grow things like the Silver Berry, a hybrid, that produces in February and March. Their seeds are 40% protein. 

• Berries of the Wild Fuscia in our area are edible. There aren't that many of them and they are not very sweet, but they are edible and pretty in a salad 

• Gooseberries may be an invasive species, but grow well in our area and they like the shade.

• We would like to begin a seed bank and exchange seeds. 

• Two seed companies which are good to use are Peaceful Valley.com and Wild seed.com. 

• A permaculture book,  "Botanical Preservation" was given a good review. And we were told there is a 40 hour class on line for Introduction to permaculture. http://permaculture-media-download.blogspot.com/2011/09/introduction-to-permaculture-40-hours.html 

                    Another good site is www.permaculture.co.uk/

          There were so many good offerings at that meeting: an offer of Alaskan fish at wholesale, a

          website for  G.R.O.W., help for  a children's garden program, organizing for buying fertilizer 

          wholesale again this spring, and a suggestion that we try to start community gardens 

          in our local parks.  

All are welcome to come to the next meeting on November 22nd.  Bring your ideas and  enthusiasm.

          Good gardening!

What To Plant Now

If you're thinking about putting in a winter garden, now is the time to plant kale, lettuce, mache and other salad green starts. You can also seed these now, as well as the following:  arugula, Asian greens, beets, cabbage for spring, carrots, endive (if you like endive), fava beans, garlic, onions, radish and shallots.

I recently put in broccoli and spinach starts, based on our late spring, summer, and possibly late fall. You can plant  beets, carrots, brassicas and lettuce together...they're good companions.

Of course, cover crops are good to plant now if you are not starting a winter garden.

Food Not Lawns

Food Not Lawns  is a neat site to access methods of organic gardening.  They have connections with Tilth and post valuable information for gardeners. I came across an extensive review of garden symphylans, those pesky little white centipede looking things that destroy plants.  They are pervasive in the Willamette Valley.  I'm not sure about the Coast. Check it out!

http://bugs.scribble.com/index.html

Got Cut Worms?

This article from the University of Minnesota might be helpful:  

Cutworms in Home Gardens

Jeffrey Hahn and Suzanne Wold-Burkness, 

University of Minnesota

Copyright ©  2011  Regents of the University of Minnesota. All rights reserved.

printer-friendly PDF version

INTRODUCTION

Cutworms are the larvae (caterpillars) of several species of night-flying moths in the family Noctuidae. The larvae are called cutworms because they cut down young plants as they feed on stems at or below the soil surface. There are also species of climbing cutworms that move up plants and feed upon foliage, buds and shoots. The adults are night-flying moths and do not cause damage. As general feeders, most cutworms attack a wide range of plants. Some common vegetable hosts include asparagus, bean, cabbage and other crucifers, carrot, celery, corn, lettuce, pea, pepper, potato, and tomato. In addition, a few species feed on turfgrass.

IDENTIFICATION

The most common species of cutworm occurring in Minnesota gardens are the bronzed cutworm, variegated cutworm, black cutworm, dingy cutworm, glassy cutworm and army cutworm.

Cutworms can be quite distinct from one another, and their coloring can vary from brown or tan to pink, green or gray and black.  Some cutworms are a uniform color while others are spotted or striped.  Some larvae are dull and others appear glossy or shiny.  Cutworms curl up into a tight "C" when disturbed. 

Adult moths are moderate sized, brown or black insects showing various splotches, or stripes in shades of gray, brown, black or white.  They generally have a body length of about one inch with wingspans up to 1 1/2 inches across.  Typically, the front wings are darker than the hind wings and are patterned. 

LIFE CYCLE

Some cutworms migrate into the state from the south each year.  However, other species, including, dingy cutworm, bronzed cutworm, and glassy cutworm are native to Minnesota and overwinter as eggs or larvae.

Female moths can lay hundreds of eggs, singly or in small clusters.  They typically deposit them on low-growing plants and on plant residue.  Migrating moths lay eggs on the soil and the larvae hatch to feed on plants.  Young larvae feed on the foliage or small roots of weeds or crops until they reach about 1/2 inch in length.  Emerging or newly emerged weeds can be very attractive sites for egg laying and feeding by small larvae. At this stage, they can begin feeding on seedling stems, either cutting through them or burrowing into them.  Corn, peppers, tomatoes, beans, and the crucifer family are common hosts, but they will attack many kinds of herbaceous plants.

Cutworm larvae grow as large as two inches long.  They may go through as many as three generations per year.  Native cutworms overwinter in weedy areas, grassy fields or pastures.  It is often in these areas and along field borders where problems arise.  If weeds are permitted to grow in the fall after crop harvest and the fall and winter seasons are mild, large numbers of cutworms may survive to attack vegetables in the spring.

Cutworm abundance and development is greatly affected by weather, especially rainfall.   Moths mate and lay eggs from early spring (black cutworm) to late summer/fall (dingy, glassy, and bronzed cutworm), beginning the next generation. 

DAMAGE

Most cutworm damage occurs on vegetable seedlings early in the season when plants are small and have tender tissue.  Although cutworms are active throughout the summer, they are rarely a problem after spring.  Cutworm populations can vary greatly from year to year and, when numerous, can devastate a garden.  Most of the damage caused by cutworms occurs when they chew stems of young plants at or slightly above or below the soil line.  Sometimes the severed plants will drop into their burrows.  Some cutworms, e.g. black, bronzed, and army cutworms, can be very injurious, attacking and cutting new plants nightly.

Climbing species of cutworm, (e.g., variegated cutworm) can climb the stem of trees, shrubs, vines, and garden plants and eat the leaves, buds and fruit.  Other species, such as glassy cutworms, remain in the soil and feed upon roots and underground parts of the plant.

MANAGEMENT

Regularly check your garden, especially during late afternoon and evening when cutworms are more active, so you can detect their activity when they are first present.  Also inspect your plants in the morning when damage is fresh and easier to see.  Watch for plants cut off near the ground or plants that are noticeably wilting (when cutworms chew on the stems but do not sever the plant).  You may also detect droppings on the ground, which can indicate cutworm feeding.  To verify cutworms are present, run your hand over the soil, rolling over soil clumps and other potential hiding places within a one foot square area of the damage.

Control of cutworms is more effective when the larvae are small.  For some crops, such as tomatoes, peppers and celery, you may need to monitor for cutworms until harvest.

CULTURAL

Remove weeds and plant residue to help reduce egg-laying sites and seedling weeds that nourish small cutworms.  Till your garden before planting which helps expose and kill overwintering larvae.  Tilling also removes plant residue, which helps to discourage egg laying.  Avoid using green manure as this may encourage egg laying, instead use compost.  Till your garden in the fall; this helps destroy or expose overwintering larvae or pupae.

PHYSICAL

You can control cutworms by placing aluminum foil or cardboard collars around transplants.  This creates a barrier that physically prevents cutworm larvae from feeding on plants.  When placing these collars around plants, make sure one end is pushed a few inches into the soil, and the other end extends several inches above ground.  This should prevent most species of cutworms from getting to your plants.

Free Plants and Plant Swaps

We are endeavoring to have a place where people can trade or give away plants.  This post will keep an update of what is available.  Please leave a comment with phone number if you have something you want to give.  I will post it as soon as I see it.  Thanks.  -admin-

Currently we have red raspberry plants to give away or swap. They are various sizes, but should all be good for next spring.  They have a great flavor!

http://www.helpfulgardener.com/organic/2006/insects.html:          I shamelessly lifted this information from this site. I think it's helpful.  Especially now as summer is here and the pests are really out.  :-)) I hope it's helpful!

Gardening tips from The Helpful Gardener.

Gardening tips: The Helpful Gardener promotes sustainable gardening that is safe for the local environment. Read all of our articles about Organic Gardening and start improving your garden today!

Easily control garden pests with these earth friendly tips

Unwanted insects in your garden are just that: unwanted. Unwanted insects may eat and destroy your crops, something shared by any farmer or home gardener. Organic gardening is a means of controlling unwanted insects naturally, without the use of dangerous pesticides. There are many ways to control garden unwanted insects naturally that are also cheap, easy and good for the earth.

Protect your organic soil and beneficial insects

While pesticides may eliminate the pest, they most often cause more harm than good. Unfortunately, many home and commercial gardeners are unaware of alternatives to pesticides. That’s because s are a big part of our culture. Reaching for a quick fix—albeit a dangerous fix—is a deep seeded and detrimental habit.

Yet apart from damaging the soil and being a health hazard to people—including our children—pesticides present a major problem. They eradicate species indiscriminately, causing helpful garden co-habitants to disappear along with the harmful ones.

An organic garden with beneficial insects

Indeed, the fact remains that not all insects are unwanted insects. Any kindergartner can tell you that bees help flowers. He or she could also tell you that a ladybug is good luck. But more than just good luck, ladybugs are a highly helpful natural pesticide to have in your garden, feeding on a myriad of insect unwanted insects including aphids if you ever see little alligator like insects around your garden, leave them be! These are the larval stage of ladybugs. Obviously, s are not as intelligent as your average kindergartner—they kill bugs on a wholesale level while upsetting ecosystems and ruining your plants as well as your soil.

Are your garden pests resistant to pesticides?

Commercial farmers today have a strong reliance on pesticides. Large companies sell pesticides to farmers who use them on their crops. Over the years the unwanted insects become resistant to the pesticides and increasingly larger amounts must be used. So it is that the farmer pays more and more money and dumps more and more of them onto his/her crops-our food. The result is a coated crop and a pesticide resistant bug, a crop that is more susceptible to the insect pest.

Are you harming the local bird population?

Recent studies have been conducted concerning pesticides’ effect on local bird populations. Birds eat the insects, which have ingested the pesticides. Because the pesticide is an indiscriminate poison, the bird is targeted as well. Furthermore, if the birds do not immediately disappear, their eggshells become thinner and thinner and often break when parent birds sit on the eggs. This is a huge problem with bald eagles in North America. With no insects and no birds those predators which live off of the birds disappear too, causing a huge disruption in the local ecosystem which is never beneficial to growth of any kind.

Birds eat insects!

Encourage birds to come into your garden by placing a bird bath in the garden and by planting plants that will attract birds such as sunflowers. There are even perennial sunflowers that not only attract birds year round but, can also be planted like a hedge and repel deer and other animals. Helianthus maximillani.

Natural pest control is rooted in a vigorous, balanced ecosystem. Years of pesticide use may be so disruptive to a local ecosystem that the land may become unusable after only a few years. They remain in the soil and become more concentrated with each year of use, eventually rendering the soil unable to produce vigorous plants.

The soil can heal

However, there is hope. Some products like methyl bromide can be amended by simply adding organic matter to the infected soil. The result is addition of the organic portion of this pesticide to the organic matter that you already added and liberation of the bromide ion. At the very least, you can add organic matter to a laden soil to simply dilute the concentration. However, you can also look up the MSDS online for that to learn how to amend it.

Organic alternatives to pesticides

There are many natural, organic alternatives to pesticides that are more long lasting, safe, vigorous and generally effective.

One of the simplest pest control devices is a barrier. By covering a row of crop with a light netting (which allows the sunlight to come through) flying unwanted insects are effectively kept away from the plants. These are generally used for food crops. Cabbage can be protected from flea beetles and green beans from Mexican Bean Beetles.

Another simple method of pest control for a small garden is handpicking. Many slugs and Hornworms can be handpicked off of plants with great success.  Put them in a container and relocate them to another area.  I don't know for sure, but I suspect Mother nature has a use for them).  Certain moths and bugs can be knocked out of trees with a stick; allow them to fall onto a large piece of cloth so that they can be gathered .

Beneficial Insects Will Control the Bad Insects

Some insects like the Ladybug and the Green Lacewing are called beneficial because they are the good guys who are on the hunt for the bad guys that are feeding on your plants. Here is a list of beneficial insects, with links to where they are offered by an Earth friendly distributor.

 

Green Lacewings Chrysoperla carnea 

Green Lacewings are an all purpose beneficial insect that feed on insects such as aphids and other insects that will come and feed on your plants. Green Lacewings are perfect for a backyard garden, larger garden, or a greenhouse.

Easy way to get rid of slugs and aphids!

Certain varieties of plants are more resistant to insects. Some research into the types of plants you grow and the unwanted insects common to your area could prevent a lot of pest problems. Also, some plants themselves are pesticides. For instance, planting tobacco around your vegetable garden is an excellent way to discourage slugs and aphids!

How native plants can revive your garden

Buy local transplants to avoid bringing non-native unwanted insects into your garden. Add mulch and other simple barriers around your crops, check your garden regularly. Some mulches are better than others.  If you use straw around your plants, expect the slugs to hide in it.  Otherwise, cedar chips help keep them away.  They don't like to be stuck with the shims. Also, copper tape around the base of your plants works well.  It gives off an electromagnetic charge that keeps slugs away.  I've watched.  It works!  So do pennies!

 Healthy plants are naturally more resistant to predators; just like having a strong immune system. All of these methods are natural and easy preventative measures to help you obtain a pest free garden.

If your preventative measures did not work, there are many, natural and organic plant sprays that can control unwanted insects. A mixture of Petroleum oil and water sprayed onto a plant is a natural pesticide that has been used effectively for hundreds of years. Many oils, shells and plant extracts can also be used as safe, effective, natural pesticides.

Administrator's note:  I have been introduced (yes, this late in my gardening career) to diatomacious earth.  You can sprinkle it on your plants, and around the bases to keep insects and slugs off the plants.  This works well.  But you MUST wear a dust mask.  It is silica and any little breeze will blow it your way.  It should NOT be inhaled.  I think it might also be turned into the soil for wire worms.  But I haven't experimented with that yet.

Related articles:  Natural pest control is a safer and, ultimately, more effective means of keeping a vigorous organic garden. With a little more knowledge it becomes obvious that the use of non-organic pesticides is not only ineffective but dangerous and irresponsible. By understanding your native habitat ecosystem and working in partnership with establishing a balance of beneficial insect predators such as ladybugs, praying mantis, and birds, as well as planting species that naturally prohibit invasion by unwanted insects, you too can have a vigorous garden by working in partnership with your garden.

• How to Choose and Grow Heirloom Carrots
• Growing Organic French Country Herbs
• You too can Grow an Italian Herb Garden
• Herb Gardens
• Organic Heritage Vegetables
• How to: Organic Vegetable Gardening
• Growing Organic Fruit Trees
• Control insects with garden friendly techniques
• Organic Gardening Means Befriending Beneficial Insects
• Organic Heirloom Tomatoes
• About Organic Gardening and Why it Should Matter to You
• How to Create a Beautiful Organic Garden!
• Organic Compost: The Easy Way!
• Role of crop rotation in the organic garden

 

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Planting tips/June/ and Clean Your Vegetables

Finally!  It looks like we might actually have a growing season here on the coast.  It is short in any year, so it's is a bit of a challenge for us this year.  The common advice is that the optimum time for planting vegetables is by mid June.  Well, I plant all summer, especially things like lettuce and re-planting of chard, spinach and other cold weather varieties, if you want them to over-winter.  The coast weather is conducive to being a little more creative.

You can plant berries now....strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, black and boysenberries.  Our good gardener friend John Yager tells us that silverberries are great producers and can be bought at a nursery in Molalla.  Contact John via the phone book.  He is also researching other varieties of edible berries and plants.  My personal favorite to pursue is Seaberry.  Like tiny oranges, they are very high in vitamin C and can be used for jams and jellies.

Clean Your Vegetables


What a scare!  Germany is experiencing a deadly E.coli and many have died.  We've had our scares here, but the one in Europe is really serious. If you are at all worried about the possibility of that happening here, an effective and low tech way of  killing E.coli is to wash your vegetables in salt water.  The organisms absorb the salt and burst their cell membranes, killing them. Don't let agri-business scare you away from your own home-grown veggies or store bought organics, by claiming that E.coli is a greater danger.  They definitely have the same problems.  Common sense and, wash those veggies!

Garden Spring Cleaning

Spring is finally here and gardeners are appearing out of the winter woodwork. We look forward to the lush and productive beds of summer. Thanks to Rose Oliveri and Frankie Stewart, we have a new box at the end of the garden where the forest of grass was removed by these intrepid gardeners.  They are responsible for the new look we have in herb planters as well.

We are looking for a new hose reel on the east end of the garden.  If anyone cares to give suggestions or donate, call 541 997-2997.  Thanks.